big 3 upgrade wait or do it now?

I was wondering if i should do the big 3 upgrade before i do my install or wait and see how it effects my electrical system? My situation is this, I plan on installing my system on thurs so i would like to get the big 3 done tomorrow if needed. It will be powering around about 1400 watts rms ,It currently powers about 600 watts rms with no problem. My vehicle is a 2003 dodge ram 1500.I havent got the specs on the alternator yet because its dark outside (looking for a flashlight in between typing) and I just thought of this.-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-

Sup SP, DO IT NOW! A 600rms can have a high peak, so it should have been done! No j/k. About the done part. As time has gone on, and I've gotten better at this stuff, I'll install all my wire, sound deadening and whatever else before I begin collecting equipment. At a 1400rms are you thinking 1/0 wire? If you want, I can give you a math formula that can calculate the total amount of power your alt and batt. can produce... FYI- Prior my big 3, I had roughly the same rms(1400). I did everything but the wire from the Alt to batt. and unsurprisingly I had a voltage high of about 13.8.(without system on) After connecting that last cable, now I got a clean 14.5 constant. 1 last thing, what battery and battery terminal connects are you using?This is what I do for FUN!

I'll bet the big 3 will effect your system performance (in a beneficial way obviously!) You are about to more than double the voltage drops your audio system sees, hence more than 4 times the cable heating. And that's independent of the alternator which is a different issue all together (ie - get a voltmeter). But no rush - it is unlikely that the new system will be damaged or cause it. It's around 70 Amps extra (typical max). Just turn the volume down if your flashlight spots any glowing wires etc - especially the engine to body/chassis ground strap (that's one NOT to lose!)

ianarian wrote: Sup SP, DO IT NOW! A 600rms can have a high peak, so it should have been done! No j/k. About the done part. As time has gone on, and I've gotten better at this stuff, I'll install all my wire, sound deadening and whatever else before I begin collecting equipment. At a 1400rms are you thinking 1/0 wire? If you want, I can give you a math formula that can calculate the total amount of power your alt and batt. can produce... FYI- Prior my big 3, I had roughly the same rms(1400). I did everything but the wire from the Alt to batt. and unsurprisingly I had a voltage high of about 13.8.(without system on) After connecting that last cable, now I got a clean 14.5 constant. 1 last thing, what battery and battery terminal connects are you using?

Thanks for the info ian.....Im using factory terminals with o-ring connections,nothing special and a cheapo less schwab battery till i can get a new one.-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-

oldspark wrote: I'll bet the big 3 will effect your system performance (in a beneficial way obviously!) You are about to more than double the voltage drops your audio system sees, hence more than 4 times the cable heating. And that's independent of the alternator which is a different issue all together (ie - get a voltmeter). But no rush - it is unlikely that the new system will be damaged or cause it. It's around 70 Amps extra (typical max). Just turn the volume down if your flashlight spots any glowing wires etc - especially the engine to body/chassis ground strap (that's one NOT to lose!)

Great info ,much appreciated -A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-

Hmmm....Is there a "ah" value stated on that battery? If I were you, I'd seriously consider some new terminal connects for the battery. Fosgate makes a decent one that just has 3 screw down binders which still enables you to use ring terminals. Sold at Fry's for $20 a pop. You want to optimize connection in this area... Especially now with the system you got. A new battery from Kinetic, xspower or optima is worth its weight in gold...This is what I do for FUN!

ianarian wrote: Hmmm....Is there a "ah" value stated on that battery? If I were you, I'd seriously consider some new terminal connects for the battery. Fosgate makes a decent one that just has 3 screw down binders which still enables you to use ring terminals. Sold at Fry's for $20 a pop. You want to optimize connection in this area... Especially now with the system you got. A new battery from Kinetic, xspower or optima is worth its weight in gold...

I havent had a chance to check the battery for a "ah" number,I have been considering and optima yellow top ,but my battery is less than a year old. Ive also been searching battery terminals and there is so many i dont know what style to get if i get any.All help would be greatly appreciated.Another question I got is I I currently run 4 awg into the cab for both power and ground,will this be sufficient for my install?Thanks for all the help,I could also use that math formula-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-

I always recommend the big 3, no matter what.  Indeed, I often upgrade the big 3 on my cars even if I'm not putting in a sound system.  :)Support the12volt.com

Monster 300 SlimLine MPC P300 SLM BC3 This style requires you to put terminal connectors on all wires connecting to the battery. Many terminal connectors host certain cable sizes only...You will need to host whatever is stock to the truck, as well as 2 of whatever size big 3 and power wire you decide to use. Here is one calculation I can make for ya... Formula- (wattage/efficiency)/voltage= the current needed           (800/.7)=1142/(14.4)=80 amps            This determines that the amp has to draw 80 amps of current to produce 800 watts of power... If your system has 1400w RMS then add another 60 amps.(800w=80a)=(600w=60a) 140a of current pulled @ 14.4v to produce 1400w @ 70% efficiency. So, if you need 140a(which probably already exceeds the internal fuse ratings of both amps) your 4ga is too small... If you want to stick with your current alt. and batt. you'll need to find out the battery ah value(the time used to determine this value too) and the current capabilities of the alt. Then we can determine what your electrical system can produce in terms of total wattage. This is what I do for FUN!