can this cause electrical issues?

I just purchased a 2002 Pontiac Bonneville that is fully loaded with power everything. Currently, there are two issues that (in my opinion) are electrical problems: Back power windows do not work and the heated seats also do not work. I told the dealer my intention of adding in-dash TV to replace the stock stereo as one of the lights is currently burnt out in the display, and then adding my JL13W7 and JL1000/1 to the mix. He told me that adding an aftermarket stereo of any kind and "messing around" with the wiring can cause many electrical issues within the car and that his reputation is on the line if the car fails. I've had car stereos in my cars before and I can sort of see where he is coming from, but I am not 100% convinced that this is an inevitable scenario. I went to the shop I get all of my work and equipment from and they just told me to add an additional battery and it will be fine. Is this true? Seems too easy. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Will the addition of a car stereo cause inevitable doom to the rest of my electrical systems?

That amp is very power hungry.  Save the battery money and put it towards a High Output Alternator.  Look in the Car Audio Hot Topics forum for the thread on Upgrading the Big 3, do that and upgrade the alternator and all will be fine.  Running that amp with the stock alternator will not do any damage to your vehicle.

Thank you very much!

But have your two issues sorted first, then they CAN'T blame you!

I installed the sub and amp into the car and it rarely dips below 14V, but as soon as I turn the car off and play music, my battery last about 5 minutes. I've been hearing from people that a second battery is more important than a HO alt. Also, I don't know where to find a decent alt for a fair price. Any suggestions?

IDMAX12V3 wrote: I've been hearing from people that a second battery is more important than a HO alt.

Yep, there are lots of morons around. It's not moronic if you like supplying below 12.7V to your system rather than 14.4V. Nor is it moronic if you want to be left with a flat battery after 10 minutes instead of 5.    But clever people upgrade their alternator to handle its load. They then add batteries is they want to increase their reserve time (the time it takes until you get a flattery - whether not charging, or if the alternator does not handle its load).

oldspark wrote: IDMAX12V3 wrote: I've been hearing from people that a second battery is more important than a HO alt. Yep, there are lots of morons around. It's not moronic if you like supplying below 12.7V to your system rather than 14.4V. Nor is it moronic if you want to be left with a flat battery after 10 minutes instead of 5.    But clever people upgrade their alternator to handle its load. They then add batteries is they want to increase their reserve time (the time it takes until you get a flattery - whether not charging, or if the alternator does not handle its load).

I had an issue again tonight with my car dying. This time I have no explanation. I parked my car at work and went to get something from it on my break and I noticed my remote unlock didn't work. I tried starting the car it was dead. A few hours later a co-worker came to jump the battery and I noticed the headlight/tail lights were flashing (almost like hazard lights) and my amp had the 'Low Voltage' light on. There was a clicking sound coming from in or around my fuse box every time the lights went on. I boosted it and it worked fine, but when I turned my car off, I noticed that a power light is still on the amp. That isn't normal, is it? What could be the issue there?

The Amp was on. It drained the battery. Or the alarm did (it was responding to a low battery voltage as many (IMO crap) alarms seem to do). The battery needs a good charge else it is stuffed. If you mean power light on the amp as in "the amp is on" power light (not a low voltage power light), I'd argue that having it on when you leave the car is not normal.

I have no alarm on the car, so it must have been the amp. I just don't know why the amp is still on when there is no key in the ignition. I even had a 'pro' install it. I guess this just goes to show that you should do your own work whenever possible.

Main reasons for flat battery:- Leave lights on Leave dome lights on Charge failure (short journeys etc.) Bad alternator, loose drive belts. Lack of battery care and maintenance. Loose terminals, bad connections (not flat but same symptoms) Lousy wiring such as wiring an amp full time rather than via the H/unit's switch trigger or faulty head unit and accessories.