I was hoping for others to reply, but before this disappears off the last-100....
Switches are expensive. And bikes need quality (vibration) and weather protection.
If only some bike or other outdoor vehicle or watercraft has the switches you require.
Otherwise single switches can be bought in various types and weather/ingress ratings (eg IP65). Probably cheaper than that panel (which doesn't say much about IP-type rating other than they are sealed
), but then you'd need to mount them...
The switches you linked are also high-current (15A), hence expensive. And hence requiring heavy cabling if using that current.
I much prefer low-current switches which then control remote relays or MOSFETs. (THat also keeps hi-current wiring short, hence lower voltage drops.)
Not only such switches cheaper, they have a much wider selection (spunky PC & audio switches). A single or two 8-core screened cable/s could be a tidy interconnection (common CAT-5 cables etc). Else more cores if the switches require individual poles - ie, four 2-way (single pole, ie SPDT) switches require a max 12 cores, though maybe as little as 9, or 8 if ground switching is used (it won't matter for relays, and it's often usually easier for MOSFETs).
You can even get fancy and use momentary NO & NC (normally open & closed) push buttons that control normal relays wired to self-latch (the NC switch is used to unlatch)- it all depends on what your are controlling.
I usually look at the available switches, consider their price, overrule with spunkiness (meaning how the switch looks) whilst keeping in mind the environment (IP rating), lighting, and gloved hands etc. I then decide what method I'll use (remote relay switching etc).
That's all for what it's worth....
[ FYI only: I recently went through the pain
of designing a method of controlling my headlamps individually for alignment (and other) purposes. (All lamps are on individual relays.)
A two-way selection switch was essential.
Then I thought a rotary switch for individual selection. But 4 positions for now? Or 6 if I return the outer 2 dual-filament (H4) beams to normal hi-lo use (they are currently dedicated low beams). Or 8 if I add driving lights?
Then it hit me. A single cheap push button that clocks a 4017 "one of ten output" counter IC - ie, Integrated Circuit; ~$4?). Output zero
is no lights. 1 is for left low beam, 2 for high, etc etc. Spare outputs can be diode-OR'd to do both low or both high or all beams etc. It'll be wired to reset to 0 (zero) output (lights off) after the last output (whether 4, 6, 8).
Maybe an optional reset button in-case I dazzle someone.
It will fit in a real small box.
I even thought I might make it permanent and add another switch to configure dedicated low or normal
high-low outer beams.
And then when I add my other flashing blue & red lights, and have flashing main beams..... ]