scytek microwave sensor

It has been a while since i had purchased the microwave sensor here http://www.ecarsecurity.com/Scytek-MICROWAVE-MOTION-SENSOR-p/microwavesensor.htm i believe, i used it for a while in my truck, disconnected due to squirrls setting it off, i think, now I am wanting to hook it back up and no longer have the manual for the sensor, can anyone link or email me it, or if not available, can one of you awesome experts answer these questions? 1.which wire is pre-trigger, and which is alarm wire? (green or blue) 2.for the sensativity, i am guessing fully counterclockwise is     LEAST sensative, or is it opposite? 3.when installed, if mounted flat, which directions are the     microwaves pointing / protecting, i believe i had a problem     before with squirrels and cats always crawling under my truck     and setting it off, it was mounted both on the bottom of the     floor, inside the center console, then i eventually installed     it up / down on the back inside of the center, still same     problem and need to know how to avoid this also?     as in which way should it be mounted? 4.can i counteract the bottom sensor / sensing with foil or        something tp prevent the 40 squirrls in our trees from tripping     it? Thanks for the info help, this is a great communityBrain

Replace your wooden floors & roofs with metal. Same to any section you do NOT want the microwaves to go though. That sensor is 12V. Sensor wiring is usually red = +12V black = gnd green = output (eg +12V when activated); can be colors other than green (or black or red). As you wrote - usually clockwise is more sensitive.

the truck i made ofmetal, not wood, never had any wood anywhere for the install first location, screwed to the bottom of the inner console, which is metal, something, maybe squirrls were setting it off, 2 ddn location, screwed it to the metal backing of the inner console, same thing, something was setting it off 3-4 times per day night, no matter which direction it was aimed. now I only have 1 sensor in put on the alarm, aside from the dome input detector (trips the alarm when someone tries to open the locked door via the handle because that turns on the dome light) the only sensor i currently have hooked up is the glass breakage sensor, i hate motion sensors, and never hook them up, they are o.k. if you want to know if someone crashes into your car, and i don't want to know if it is raining, only if someone is actually in my car, or trying to do so, motion sensors are useless IMO, every strike of lightening, and your alarm goes off. I also have a battery backup, that will trip the alarm if someone cuts the battery (tested, works great), other than that i only have the glass sensor, since the doors are protected by the dome trigger. the radar sensor has always been an issue, i just cant get it right, i have tested, tested, and tested again, and always thought it was right, but then always the same thing, false alarms at night when the squirlls and cats are roaming (verified not actuall break in attempts, via sleepless nights) so by what i am interpeting you are saying, the metal of the truck floor should stop it from pennetrating that, that dosent make sense, since the pre warn penetrates the entire outer perimiter of the vehicle, sides and top. is there a specific type of metal, maybe aluminum that would stop the floor penetration, or is there a prefered angle, and location for this sensor to mount at, and point toward. also, i read somewhere about hooking multiple sensors to one input needs diodes on the trigger wires, and tha if not, that would cause my false alarms, i dont understand how that could be, i understand you dont want the other sensors getting the sognal from another sensor, but how would non-dioding cause false alarms?Brain

As the link say, it doesn't penetrate metal, and since you cab is already metal, tinfoil will be as effective as Eminem's hotel room. Though it does depend on the thickness & type, but body steel is thicker than foil. The microwaves usually aren't too far from microwave oven frequencies so the same rules apply. It could be squirrels are detected through the roof etc, but more likely glass and any gaps (rubber etc) whether direct or reflected. So it's either a case of increasing power to fry the 'lil rodents and any thieves, or desensitise it in a central location. Like you, I'm fussy with triggers. I'll only use microwave and switches. I find others (glass breakage, motion, ultrasonic, voltage) false trip way to often. (Else their complexity makes then unreliable or expensive.) The others are tripped by bats, Harleys, my ute - but I don't know the frequency output of squirrels, nor the harmonics of feet on glass & metals. Diodes usually aren't required for ground switching sensors, but that microwave is +12V switching. Diodes are then used to protect the paralleled sensors, though they could stop oscillations if paralleled sensors caused that (doubtful - they are usually relay or semiconductor outputs from either rail with no caps etc and low enough impedance to swamp stray capacitance and inductance (though maybe installers know otherwise??) But false triggering? Something triggering might blow another sensor, but that isn't a false trigger.

yea, right now all i have is the glass detector, and i have extended the mic and mounted it at the back gate glass, next to the squeaky hydraulic (or whatever) cylinder that helps keep it open, with only the glass sensor, i have never had a false alarm, and the front is protected by the dome light activation when u pull on a door handle, and of course, the battery is protected by the backup battery which is connected to the door pin in on the alarm, as it gives a negative pulse when the battery is removed. Never a false alarm with the setup as it is, unless I am breaking wood, or hammering something within 5 ft of my back gate (i have tripped it 2-3 times as my shed is right behind my truck, and that is generally where i do all my misc building projects. I read somewhere that microwave sensors have a habit of Interfering with glass sensors, which may be the problem, IDK. I actually live in a different place now than when I originally had it hooked up, come to think of it, it may have been a reaction to a tree that I parked next to, but it was just random, and 99% of the time at night that it happened, thus causing many nights of lost sleep and cam-cording's of my truck to verify that it was not a person at all, I have also read somewhere to give it an independent 12v source, that the alarm may not put out enough power for both sensors, thus causing a fluctuation in power, and trip either or sensor, even during the original install, i had it set to a relatively low sensitivity, the pre-warn was very low, and the alarmed sensor, was also very low, in all my testing and adjusting, i could walk around forever and never trigger the alarm, only the pre-warn occasionally, take a 2 min break, walk around again, as i know these things need time to relax between senses, especially the pre-warns, as like 4-6 in a row will set it off. I am probably going to hook it back up this weekend, play with it a bit, may even just use either only the pre-warn, or full trip, just depending on the responses i get, i have never been too fond of vehicles that go off when someone parks next to you and gets out, but i do want to know if someone actually gets in. So like i say, I'm gonna play with it a bit, begin with an independent 12v power, diode the trigger, which is what i meant, (just in case....you never know), and see what happens...., may just be a bad / cheap sensor. I have always loved my radar sensors in the past, never had a problem, they have always been my #1 choice, and I always hated motion sensors, and this is my first glass detector, so it may actually be an interference issue as i read earlier, but surely there are vehicles out there with both sensors that don't have that problem...lol. i have a collection of those damn motion sensors in my shed...lol. maybe I'll pop some pop-corn and see if that trips it...lol....thanksBrain