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subwoofer advice.


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soundnsecurity 
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Posted: August 23, 2010 at 5:45 PM / IP Logged  
ok that clears things up a bit. if you build a box go ahead and use 3/4 MDF and you should be ok but like i said if you have to make any side of your box more than 1.5ft to 2ft long then i would add some bracing as close to the center of that side as possible and you will need to subtract the volume that the braces take up to get your final internal volume. and it doesn't hurt to seal the internal edges with liquid nails, silicon works too but liquid nails will add strength. and this is just a tip, but i prefer to just drill a small hole to run the speaker wire through instead of installing a terminal cup because they like to melt over time but with the kind of power you are running, i dont think it will be an issue for you.
perfectcreature 
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Posted: August 23, 2010 at 6:12 PM / IP Logged  
Okay, how would I determine the displacement of say the liquid nails and the bracing, as for drilling a hole into the box? Absolutely. That would be easy and look the cleanest to me.
Thanks.
(What is the best for bracing?) Thanks. 3/4 MDF is what I should be using? Should I bother sound deadening it or no?
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: August 24, 2010 at 10:35 AM / IP Logged  
yes 3/4 MDF or thicker is fine. you can use other hard woods like oak but they are more expensive and harder to work with. take the piece of wood you plan to use for the bracing and just multiply L x W x H to get the volume then divide by 12^3 to get cubic feet( it should be something really small like .02ft^3)then subtract that from your overall box volume. dont worry about figuring the volume of the liquid nails, its not that serious.
perfectcreature 
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Posted: August 24, 2010 at 11:31 AM / IP Logged  
Okay, so then the bracing should not be that big a deal?
Should I make my measurements a bit larger to compensate? or no?
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: August 25, 2010 at 10:05 AM / IP Logged  
if you want to be at an exact certain airspace then yeah you need to make the box a tiny bit bigger to compensate for the spots where you will need to brace. but if you dont you should still only be off by maybe two tenths of a cubic foot or less depending on how much bracing you decide to do. ported boxes can be sensitive to differences in airspace and even that small difference could throw off your tuning frequency by +/- 1 or 2 Hz.
perfectcreature 
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Member spacespace
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Location: Maine, United States
Posted: August 25, 2010 at 11:59 AM / IP Logged  
Yeah, I know. I played around with the RE-Audio website, the have a box maker for their sub woofers and changing the specs even .5 inches would throw the tuning off.
I will make it a bit bigger so that I can brace it well.
What about sound dampening for the subwoofer. What should I line the box with to avoid any resonance....
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: August 25, 2010 at 12:10 PM / IP Logged  
dont line it with anything, ported box designs use that resonance. if you dampen the inside you might lose response or db.
perfectcreature 
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Member spacespace
Joined: August 20, 2010
Location: Maine, United States
Posted: August 25, 2010 at 9:00 PM / IP Logged  
Okay. Thanks for letting me know.
What about the outside...stain it and then cover it with what? (I don't want it covered in carpet)
What would be the most durable stuff...something I could spray on...I was told truck bed liner...anything like that?
Thanks.
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: August 26, 2010 at 1:21 PM / IP Logged  
yeah you can use bedliner but i wouldn't use the stuff you get in a can. at the very least get the stuff that you are supposed to roll on and do like 5 coats. you are going to want to round off your edges of the box too if you plan to do that. the best thing you can do is have it sprayed by a professional but depending on the size of you box it could cost you around 150 to 200, maybe less depending on how desperate the guy is for work.
perfectcreature 
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Member spacespace
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Posted: August 26, 2010 at 9:18 PM / IP Logged  
Eh, true....that is a bit much.
Any alternatives?
Thanks.
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