massive confusion, 2002 chrysler 300m

Basics: 2002 Chrysler 300M Special 160a Police Package Alt Optima Red Top 1/0 big three, and power wire to the trunk Kicker ZX1000.1, ZX350.4, Factory RB1 Navigation radio (made by Alpine). LOC running from the two front channels. 5 farad cap Ground run from the 1000.1 is less than 6 inches, less than 14" on the 350.4, both grounded at the same point. 2 x Boston Acoustics G512 subs, single 4 ohm voice coil. Wired in parallel, 2 chamber sealed box. I have been experiencing some issues that have been getting progressively worse over the last few months. When I push the brake pedal, use the turn signal, or sometimes even use my power window, both amps shut off for a second, and then boot right back up. I checked all connections, tightened up the positive line on the cap just for ha has cause it was a hair loose. Remote signal while car is running is 13.4 to 13.5V, drop to 12.9 to 13.1 when brake pedal is pressed, certainly not that low. Today I put the meter on the positive leads of both amps and found the ZX1000.1 turning on and off and getting 15.4 to 15.5V Stable! It then went down to a stable 14.4 after a minute or so, no rhyme or reason. I'm ready to rip this whole thing out and sell it. PLEASE, any help is appreciated.2002 Chrysler 300M Special

Forgot, the 4 mid speakers are all infinity, all 2 ohms. The 350.4 is rated and is running at 90x4 RMS at 2 ohms per channel.2002 Chrysler 300M Special

I suspect the issue is the OEM radio.  What are you using as remote turn on for the amps?Support the12volt.com

The remote is the factory remote lead that went into the 360 watt Infinity factory amp in the trunk. That amp is disconnected and removed. I swapped out the factory head units (I have another factory unit on hand) and the issue was the same, no change.2002 Chrysler 300M Special

I suggest trying a different remote turn on.  Find a circuit, any circuit in your car that tuns on and off with the key and wire the amps to turn on and off with that.  See if it helps.Support the12volt.com

Where are the grounds for the amps made... Just because they are short enough doesn't mean it's a good ground or in the proper place.2008 Dodge Ram 1500

MECP Certified Advanced Installer CEA 191700

ben d. wrote: Where are the grounds for the amps made... Just because they are short enough doesn't mean it's a good ground or in the proper place.

The ground is on the chassis of the car, sanded down to bare metal. DYohn - What about using a relay as well? Another thing I noticed today is even when the radio is off (the clock displays on the screen when the radio is off) the numbers of the time flicker a bit when I push the brake pedal. I guess I'll start with running the new remote as suggested. As mentioned above, should I use a relay and outside power source?2002 Chrysler 300M Special

my girl has a 07 kia and i hooked the amps up to the remote wire from the deck, and noticed that when i turn it up to 20 the amp will shut off, i went thru the system and found the remote wire was only putting out 6.5 volts, relay time,

check your volts at the remote and see what you got. mite be the same as my problem?

ac delco am radio and sparkomatic 40 watt sound exploder

And ensure good alternator-battery power... At first I was thinking weak battery, but your later descriptions are like bad alternator power connection.... Feel for hot spots in the cables & joints.    I'm assuming ground connections are ok - especially alternator (engine) to body/chassis.

No need to use a relay, but it also sounds like you may have an electrical issue in your car that has nothing to do with the amps you've added.  If the OEM head unit is "flickering" and you haven't changed anything in the wiring harness, you have a problem in your vehicle electrical system that will likely require a trip to the shop.Support the12volt.com