2001 hyundai xg300l big 3 upgrade

Okay, so I have read the Big 3 post, but when looking at the shop manual I don't know which OEM cables I need to locate to add the upgrade, here is the link to the manual - https://acrobat.com/#d=qGepD9*NgNGevq7RR6BgvA I should upgrade the B+ Cable to the B terminal on the Alternator, upgrade the Ground from Battery to Chassis and then...? Thanks for any help, I am very new and would like to do this myself as I did my system. Pioneer DEH-2100IB HU (Lame) Sony XM-460GTX Amp (Runs my fronts and rears) Power Acoustik LT-980 2 Ch. Amp (Parallel Wired) 2 - Kenwood KFC-W3009 12" Subs No Distribution Block, joined and soldered both amps at trunk from cable from battery.

I don't see any relevant info in the "Engine Electrical.pdf" (I was looking for cable location diagrams). But the 3rd is the engine to chassis ground. (Unless you have an engine to battery ground, but that is rare - I think especially these days.)     I presume you have fused the cable to the trunk near the battery? (No reply needed unless you haven't.) Getting into some optional info... Not that I have read the brilliant(!!) Big 3 for a while, but as I recall, it said to ADD cables rather than substitute (especially for the grounds). I thought that was excellent because it means not changing what is already there, hence there should not be any (warranty etc) accusations like "You wrecked it because you changed...". Plus - the more the merrier. IE - the more copper thickness, the lower the resistance and hence lower voltage drops. IMO the extra engine to chassis can be anywhere - any engine block bolt (else bracket, else maybe gearbox) to anywhere on the chassis. That assumes it does not cause "ground loop" problems, but usually that's a suck-it-and-see approach, and an argument for attaching cables as close to the originals as possible. Whilst using existing attachment points (hence no ground loops), I like 2 separate independent paths in case of bolt breakage etc. Maybe a 3rd in case #2 goes, and the original does not handle your full mega-powered loads (audio etc). Similarly for the battery negative to chassis, though there is only one battery terminal and usually only space for one cable in the cable's terminal (to the battery post). And maybe that's only big enough for the standard cable. But there are alternate battery cable terminals. And alternative chassis bolt locations may exist. Again, similarly for the alternator output to battery positive, though the alternator terminal is the likely limiting factor. And that cable generally has a fuse (which should be near the battery - it's not there to protect the alternator (at least IMO)). Therefore substitution is likely for the alternator to battery +12V, but that shouldn't effect warranty etc. (If that cable goes, you just won't be charging - and that's should not cause damage - just a flat battery, low audio output, and probably being stranded far from help.) And many vehicles have +12V junction boxes that distribute power to the vehicle, hence heavier cables from battery +12V and the alternator could go there, but generally added BIG loads are from the battery... I hope I'm not contradicting the Big 3 methodology or confusing the issue.    An now some very optional detail.... Keep in mind that the Big 3 is intended to reduce voltage drops from the power sources or prevent burn-out and thus loss of the ground paths (which often results in damage to electrics). There are 2 power sources - the battery and the alternator. The battery supplies the highest currents - eg, typically 250 to 450 Amps for starter motors - except where HUGE alternators are used. But hence battery cables to the starter motor must be heavy. The +12V to starter is fat and usually a dedicated cable. The starter's GND is to & through the engine block (or sometimes gearbox) so it "grounds" through the battery -ve to chassis to engine cable. They have to carry the starter current PLUS the other vehicle currents (ignitions, lights & other loads) so they should fatter than the starer cable. Once started, the alternator supplies the vehicle's power and recharges the battery. If the alternator is a typical 70A to 120A, it can't supply the same high current that the battery can (eg, 250A for cranking) so it doesn't as big cables. But tuff - the heavier ground cables are already there. But we ensure good grounding of the alternator through heavy mounting bolts to the engine (to the chassis to the battery). And we want minimal voltage drop on its +12V output to the battery, and rest of the vehicle. Once the battery is recharged, there is no power (current) going to or from it - EXCEPT for a "float current" of typically an Amp or few, AND to make up for alternator shortfalls (and subsequent recharge). Here I am trying to convey the "basics" so you might understand, and I am thinking of all the complications, exceptions, qualifications etc. I've given some of complications (like those junction boxes), but holy cow... But the start is picturing the basic grounding of battery to engine to alternator, and then the power (+12V) feeds from the alternator and the battery. Later comes the understanding of voltage drop causes and effects, where you want your "main power" from, and hence the best wiring solution. (There is no single universal answer - just basic principles.) And the various opinions and arguments... You might find a second battery beneficial for big audio or loads, or to ensure an independent cranking battery by running added accessories of the other battery(s) when the system is not charging (sufficiently.. LOL). Yet again I a sorry I have rambled. And I apologise if I have confused and confustigated you. BTW - The answer was "engine to chassis ground".