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ignition controlled circut


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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 10, 2010 at 1:57 PM / IP Logged  
Quite right Big Bird though I did mention ACC as an alternative before.
theroofable 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2010
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: October 10, 2010 at 2:16 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah I would like to have it in the acc position. Where is the best place to get an acc wire? I would like to use my fuse pannel, so I believe a self tapper would be fine for it since it should only draw a few milli amps. The only thing is that my fuse pannel is relitively hard to access, and I like all my installations clean( split loom, zip ties, factory harnesses, etc.) I am not running a lightbar, just mirror, grille, haw, and dash lights, so the total draw is about 15-20 amps. But the possibility of using a lightbar eventually makes me want to run the larger wire. Thanks for the help guys.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 10, 2010 at 2:52 PM / IP Logged  
Ignition switch, test, goes hot when ignition turned to 1st. position.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 10, 2010 at 3:34 PM / IP Logged  
I have no idea what kind of vehicle you have, it may or may not have a fuse labeled Radio.  If it does, check that fuse to see if will work for you.  Or tell us what kind of vehicle you have and we may be able to put you onto a suitable wire.
theroofable 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2010
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: October 10, 2010 at 8:34 PM / IP Logged  

Ok here is my plan to do the circuit.  Open to changes because I do not want to overload anything or cause problems.  Also, I am not sure if that ignition wire turns off the whole unit, as it is listed as an on off for the backlights.  I cannot understand the technical diagram with all the wires broken down at the end of the manual, but mabye someone else can.  Also an update, there is an amplifier that goes with this aswell, so I need to provide power to that also, FedSig does not provide a reccommended fuse or wire size for it, so I will have to call them tomorow.

8 guage wire about three to four feet with an inline 60 amp blade fuse on it run through the firewall to under the drivers seat into an 8 guage in, 10 guage out splitter distribution box.  One 10 guage will go to the amplifier, the other will go to the controller.  It reccommends an 18 or 16 guage chassis ground for the controller, but a direct battery post gound for the amplifier.  An add a fuse 10 amp will go to the ignition wire, and will be added a spare ignition fuse on the fuse pannel.  The other positives will be run to the controller to power up the lights I will be using.  That should complete everything, and I should be set to go.  Currently, everything is inside loom, as it will be when I am done with this addition.

I think when I get this unit I am going to plug it into a multi meter and see how much it exactly draws, so I can cut down the wire size alittle bit.  As stated earlier, I currently have a 30 amp inline circuit with 12 guage wire powering a switch box.

Also, the vehicle is a 2005 Jeep Liberty sport.  I will also be installing 2 LED mirror lights when they come in with the siren unit.  That will give me a dual led dash light, two rear hide away leds in the taillight housing, a speaker, and two led grille lights. 

I am open to suggestions and corrections (the reason why I posted on the forum)  Thanks everyone, you are all very helpful.

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