2003 impala remote start / keyless entry

I just got out of a bad experience with a Viper 5701. Nothing worked right with it. In fact there were a few times when I couldn't even get into my car due to the malfunctioning alarm. The day that I had it uninstalled, I couldn't get into my car and my car would not start. I had a tow truck bring it back to the "professional" installers that installed it. Anyway, I am looking to get a basic and reliable remote start and keyless entry system for my 2003 Chevy Impala. I am looking at the UltraStart U1272-PRO. I used to install myself, but that was many years ago and I never worked on anything newer than a 1999. I am looking to install this unit myself. Questions: 1) Does anyone know anything about the UltraStart U1272-PRO? Is it a good unit? Recommended? Easy to install? 2) I've been doing a little bit of research and I see something about a bypass module for newer cars. Is this needed for my '03 Impala? What is it? Is it a difficult install? And how does it connect with the aftermarket remote start/keyless entry? 3) There is a factory keyless entry system in the car, how does that come into play with the aftermarket remote start/keyless entry? If someone could shed some light on my situation, I would greatly appreciate it. Zach

You will need a bypass module. Your car has an immobilizer system called Passlock and without the bypass it will not start. You can get something like the Idatalink ADS DL CA which will not only bypass the Passlock for you but also give you other wiring to make the install much easier, like doorlock wires, tach wire, door triggers, etc. I know nothing about the Ultrastart, but most units simply connect to the bypass with a data cable and they communicate with each other through it. This makes the wiring you need to do minimal.

Go to www.idatalink.com and look at the ADS DL CA. There you can view the install guide and get an idea of how it goes in and how much time one will save you.

As for your factory keyless, the two have nothing to do with each other and both will work independantly. Since you don't want an alarm and your remotes work when the motor is on, an option could be a RS upgrade. This basically adds a RS to the remotes you have already. It activates when it sees 3 lock pulses, so you hit lock 3 times on your remote and it starts. I like the Avital 4003L, you can get them for about 60 bucks. The only drawback of this setup is range. Make sure your factory remotes have enough range for your needs...

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

The Ultra Start U1272 is a solid unit.  It has all the basic functions needed for most cars.  The install guide is well written.  The unit has a Selectable Output Relay preset for IGN2 that will handle your cars IGN2 circuit.  Programming is straight foreward and explained well in the guide.  The range is good ( over 1000 feet ) and the metal FOBs hold up nicely. 

Your car has Passlock2 immobilizer system.  That and the one wire door lock system make a good case for a bypass module that can do both.  Mikes' recommendation of an iDatalink module is spot on.  Look at their ADS DLSL GM.  It is easy to connect and program.  The iDatalink guides are very good and easy to follow.  I would go W2W mode but the newer U1272s should be able to connect via D2D.  This module can also handle the factory alarm, if present, and supplies a good Tach signal that the Ultra Start can use with no problems.

A proper install will not interfere with the cars remote keyless entry system.  Most customers stop using the factory FOBs and carry just the remote start FOB that does both with better range.  Installed correctly, it will last for years with no problems.

Soldering is fun!

Im surprised that you had problems with the Viper system. Maybe the installer didnt know what they were doing.....

I have had countless issues with the 5xxx series remote start and alarm systems. As of lately, everything has been fine with them, but when they first came out, they had many issues.Big Al

@Mike & Kreg - Thank you for your help. I'm going to do some more research before I make a purchase. I also need to look up some of your acronyms and terms that you used. I really appreciate the information on the bypass, the U1272 and the factory keyless entry system. @Dan and AJ - It very well could have been the installer. I know the company that I had install the 5701 hired a new installer but they assured me that he was completely trained in and even had prior installation experience. It was a frustrating. They even told me that Viper wasn't much of a help because it was a new system and they hadn't been able to trouble-shoot all aspects yet. I hear that DEI produces good products, and the 5701 was my first from their Viper line. I just wasn't impressed. I hope this U1272 works out better if that's the unit I choose to install. Thanks again everyone!

You sure it wasn't issues with your car that you were having? Those ignition switches and bcms in those things like to go out A LOT. A friend of mines uncle owns a shop and they replace those parts in those cars like theres no tomorrow. Actually my friend who owns one of these cars also had to replace the ignition switch after having the car under a year. I've done LOTS of 5xxx series dei alarms on those cars without issues. only times i've had people coming back was when a moronic dealership and or shop blamed an ignition switch going out on my install.A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

zerepdivad wrote: You sure it wasn't issues with your car that you were having? Those ignition switches and bcms in those things like to go out A LOT.

I agree somewhat. I havent worked on many newer GM vehicles, but the ones I did work on always gave me some trouble and it all came down to it being related to the BCM.

I worked on a Monte Carlo and the BCM shuts down after 10 mins, which can cause the alarm to go off. The door triggers need to be diode isolated first of all on the Impala just like most newer GM vehicles. I even had to wire in a relay for the door trigger and trunk because it still triggered the alarm even tho they were diode isolated. I havent had to wire in a relay on all the GM vehicles I worked on (think it depends on the alarm brand) but the triggers needed to be diode isolated at the very least. Zachy, if you were having problems with the alarm going off....I would say that was the problem. You didnt exactly say what problems you were having with it tho.