fog lamp relay wiring

Sorry, you're absolutely right needs to go into the wiring and look at the headlight hi and low beam relays.

It being a brand new vehicle, I would have to bet that there is not a problem with the OEM relays. 

No I didn't mean a problem but maybe they are separated in the steering column loom (i.e. NC) so take the feed from there at the hi-lo switch. I'd have to know the operational parameters.

We've come full circle, i.e. a hold a second hold off relay to break the first relay feed when the hi beams come on.

In fact the first post was correct and so were you! I'm the idiot for not properly reading the first post. It's like this: High beam to 86 Ground to 85 10amps constant to 87a Output to 30 30 to 86 on second relay 85 to ground 10amps constant to 87 (shared with 87a wire as above 30 to fog lights.

That confused me. 

First relay is a hi beam interlock/lockout second powers them up. I think. You should be waking up in about 2 hrs.

Isn't it simpler with 86 to the fog switch (powered from low beam power if that is a requirement) with 85 to the high beam (bulbs - ie, 8 of their relay)?     Then 30 from fused +12V and 87 to the fogs. Not that I analysed this 2nd page, but the OP seems to be fogs on unless its relay is on (if power to 30, hence why 30 is (low) beam power); the relay being on with high beams. Not a big deal, but I usually prefer 87a for things that should normally be on - as in "fail-safe" alarms or devices (solenoid fails so the 87a-device is connected to 30 - eg, an alarm).

Glad someone's cut through my rubbish here. Time for Mr. I to finish his breakfast, me to wash my lunch down with 2 x Amoxicillin and a painkiller, you to go to bed goodnight antipodean chum.

You mean I got it right? (I really did skim....) An oft forgotten trick... If you want A to cut out when B is on, use B's +12V as ground for A's relay. (Add a diode if you don't want B on and A's "control" off to turn A on.)