blowing fuses

Oh Tommy - every one knows that's a bad earth, er ground. It's the same as losing tail lights when the brakes or indicators (try to) come on etc. LOL! I was intending that more as a joke, but it is a bad ground! And people wonder why I connect audio straight to the battery (via a fuse!). Not that this issue is one of the top reasons... PS - I missed the phone scramblers in cars. That is a hoax, else someone's ignorant bullsh. As if shielding-foil in theaters etc wasn't bad enough, now they suggest phone jammers? CDMA maybe, but GSM? Farken idiots!

Have you removed the new head unit yet? Do that first and see if the condition persists. Water in the tail light wiring wont blow your fuses, it will cause other problems as explained above unless you have lots of corrosion. Look for corrosion at all the light fittings, clean up or replace.

Howie x2... I was going to question water NOT blowing fuses, but it is VERY difficult (almost impossible) to get those sorts of currents (see hydrogen power for cars...). However, as the extra bit of leakage (current) that is required to blow a fuse... maybe. But I am trying to recall where water has caused a fuse to blow (other than via bridging or damming of dirt or conductive contaminants). Usually water causes blown filaments due to corrosion that causes intermittent connections - hence excessive thermal cycling (on-off-on-off). But I'd start by removing the HU.... (Unless water removal is easier. It is required long-term anyhow...)

Check out the flux capacitor.

howie ll wrote: Check out the flux capacitor.

Are you suggesting it's a gating problem? I didn't think the solid-state version was fitted to that model, hence the mechanical gating model (aka fluxgate capacitor). I didn't think the solid-staters would click either - unless Ford used the SCR gates...? I'm sure I'll work it out in time...

You had me all the way to the last line. It might be warped.

You seem to be suggesting that I am hyper yet again. (You know I don't liked warped - it is not very sophisticated!) But I have sold the s-s caps - my buyers reckoned they were "tantalising" - I don't think they could pronounciate their metalic name. But they did find them more elegant than the larger leakier polarised caps they replaced. Buy a few thousand of them at $2 each and you soon achieve the 1F etc of larger caps. And with their lower resistance, their response was much quicker. (I like how electricity travels faster through lower resistances. If it wasn't for that, wireless communications would be as slow as thru cable! What would then be the point (other than security)?) Personally, I prefer induced hyper-jumps - Tesla had it down pat - coils provide the spikes needed (he never produced hi-energy or hi-voltage caps did he?) Speaking of which - duty calls. FYI - my GF may agree with you - she reckons I am warped. (Though in a very hyper way. Maybe I have an each-way reality?)

Joke over for now, poster look at the heater fan motor or rheostat, that's probably the problem.