2002 chrysler pt cruiser, remote starter

Hi, I've great passion in doing the things myself rather than giving it out by spending whole lots of money. By profession I'm a Physiotherapist but my passion is technology and electronics. I usually do little things like changing my vehicle engine oil, ATF, did my video deck installation, iPhone unlocking, jailbreaking and software update etc., I recently purchased a used 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser Limited for my wife in a good deal ($2500) but it doesn't have remote starter. I live in a place called Red Deer, Alberta, Canada and where we need the remote starter for to face this winter. I inquired in installation outlets but they are demanding awful prices. I thought why I can't do myself and started doing research on this. I got Code Alarm CA 6151 remoter starter kit with programmed idataLink ADS-DL-CH6 Bypass module. For both of these I've installation guide. I also got other necessary tools for installation. However I haven't started the installation still because I want have sound knowledge before I start this project. All I want to request you to explain me from the scratch for installation procedure (if you have pictures of installation that would be much appreciated). I've other questions also.

1. Did 2002 PT Cruiser have the 2nd relay starter by factory default and if the car is not having the 2nd relay, do I need it?

2. Did the code alarm CA6550 remote starter have RS 232 PORT (Since I'm having idataLink bypass module)?

3. I got programmed idataLink ADS-DL-CH6 Bypass module. Since I'm having Code Alarm CA 6550 Remote Starter, need I've to do DBI mode flash to the bypass module? If u need any further information I'm more than happy to assist you. Thanks in advance. Regards, Pubby.pubby

Hi, I'm using ADS-DL-CH6 bypass module and CT-3471TW Remote start for my 2002 PT Cruiser Limited. I did the Installation mode selection through Standard mode (Hard wiring mode) 4 pin connector with 3 wires (Blue/Wt, Black, Red wires) of Bypass module successfully since there is no power through RS232 Connector of Bypass module side (might be due to faulty connector coz I can see the power in tiny Red wire of RS 232 port connecter using the multimeter through insulation piercing probe but the power not passing through the connector at the bypass module module side). First I did the Module Programming Procedure and did it successfully through standard wire method rather than using Data wire (RS232). Next I did the Remote starter module program also step by step same as the instructions given in remote starter installation manual and I heard the beeps as it is, like the way it explained in the manual. However after the programming when I used the remote starter for door lock & unlock and for to to start the engine, I only can hear the clicks through the remote starter brain but those options are not functioning at all. However door lock & unlock is working with my old remote and I can start my engine with the key. There are few wires I didn't connect still because I'm in dilemma like what to and where to connect, 1. I didn't connected the TACH wire coz there is TACH wire from Bypass module and Remote starter brain also. So I'm not sure from where to connect the TACH wire to TACH wire at coils? I mean if I connect the TACH wire from remote starter brain then what should I've to do with the TACH wire from Bypass module 2. I didn't connect the DISARM (-Ve WHITE/ Green) and REARM (-Ve WHITE/ Brown) wires from Remote starter Brain and also DISARM (-) INPUT (Brown) wire from Bypass module. In the wiring info these wires are not available and that's why I left those as it is. 3. I connected the LOCK (- Brown) and UNLOCK (- Green) wires from Remote Starter module to LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT (GREEN/ Black) and UNLOCK (-) INPUT (Blue/Black) wires from Bypass module. 4. I connected TRUNK (-) INPUT (RED / White) wire from Bypass module to TRUNK (- Blue) wire of Remote starter Brain and I'm not sure whether this connection is wrong or not? 5. How about the DOOR PIN (- Tan/Blue of Driver's side & Blue/Orange of Rest of the doors) wire and TRUNK (- Tan/Black) wires in Driver's kick panel, I mean to what to connect and where to connect? I'm not sure what ever the wires I didn't connect would have an impact on the functions which suppose to be worked!!!!??? 6. Once I do the testing of Bypass module and remote starter brain, could I able to disconnect the connectors from both the units in order place them securely under dash board. I mean my question is, after disconnecting all the connectors need I have to redo the programming for both the units or one time programming during the testing of units are good enough? I worked from 10am to 5pm yesterday, but with little success like bypass module programming. I'm still happy that the work is progressing towards end but need little more help from you in order to finish the project. Thanks again. Look forward to hear from you ASAP. Regards, Pubby.pubby

Are you saying that you have no power at the 4 pin con.? If you dont, then you have no power for your module. make sure you test the gwr(ground while running) the black (grund) the red (12v). then go from there.

1.Are you sure you got the solid green from the module when programing?then blinking green ready for r/s.

2.The tach wire from r/s  needs to be connected the tach from module.(purple from r/s, PURPLE / white ads)

3.locks are ok.

4.You dont need the trunk release.

5.You dont need the door pin not an alarm.

6.Try to get everything working before u put anything back.

No better feeling then getting a remote start to work right!

Hi, Thanks for your reply. I used the standard wiring method (there is no power through RS232 Connector of Bypass module side and might be due to faulty connector coz I can see the power in tiny Red wire of RS 232port connecter using the multimeter through insulation piercing probe but the power not passing through the connector at the bypass module module side) using the 4 pin connector with 3 wires (Blue/Wt, Black, Red wires) and connected the RED to power, the BLACK to ground and the BLUE/WHITE to the WHITE wire off the remote starter. I tried to start the programming for remote starter initially as explained in remote starter installation manual (I MUST program the remote starter to accept an iDatalink module and it is defaulted to an Xpresskit. This is in option group 4 in the installation manual). However the Remote starter module was not responded, I mean absolutely can’t able to bring it to “entering programming mode�. There is no sound (No click sounds) from the remote starter module. After connecting all the connectors to remote starter module and there no activity in parking lights when the hood open. But even though I pressed and hold the hood pin for 4 sec for to enter in Programming mode but no response at all from the remote starter module (over optimistic). I checked the fuse and the power to the remote starter module and is absolutely fine. There is no LED activity at antenna whatsoever. I connected the following wires which I don’t have any clue earlier, For Tach I connected the PURPLE wire from remote starter to the PURPLE / WHITE wire from the ADS-DL. For the DISARM I wired up the WHITE/ GREEN wire from the remote starter to the BROWN wire of Bypass module. I connected the LOCK (- Brown) and UNLOCK (- Green) wires from Remote Starter module to LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT (GREEN/ Black) and UNLOCK (-) INPUT (Blue/Black) wires from Bypass module. I connected the BLUE wire from the Remote starter to the TRUNK (-) INPUT - RED / WHITE of Bypass module. Earlier I did the BYPASS MODULE PROGRAMMING FIRST then I followed with remote starter module and I successfully brought the remote starter module to “entering programming mode� exactly as explained in installation manual (but I made wrong connections for DISARM and TRUNK INPUT that time and I corrected now) and this time no response at all. However I can able to do the Module Programming procedure in Bypass Module without having any problems (with standard wiring method). ****Note: If I remove all the connectors from Bypass module I can’t able to start the engine. But there is no problem in starting the engine with the all connectors connected to bypass module. I did it for testing whether the engine can start with and without connectors from Remote starter brain and bypass module after all this trails. I’m just wondering are these current minor changes (wire connections) done for the remote starter module now, affecting the remote starter module for not to respond now (and earlier it did successfully)? I thought of to finish the project today (coz the weather is good for me to work on) but I couldn’t able to finish it. I even got the new battery today, thinking that the power is not sufficient to the components, but no use. I appreciate your reply so that I will do my work tomorrow. Thanks for your extending help. Regards, Pubby. pubby