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2002 f150 4.6l xlt tach and bypass


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slinky85 
Member - Posts: 25
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Joined: January 22, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2010 at 3:56 PM / IP Logged  
Im installing a viper 5701. Remote start shut down diagnostics say low battery, so i guess voltage sense doesn't work. I want to find a tach wire.
3 different sources point me in three diff directions:
-bulldog says 3 pin connector with pink white wire in front of engine near fan and intake. that doesn't exist only 2-pin plugs there, non of which have the pink/white.
-velocity motors says the not RED / green coil wire, this confused me, so any coil, and choose the "other wire" what should it read on a voltmeter? i checked volts AC and it read around 40 (on the 50vAC scale)no fluctuation with rpms. I might have a bad meter lol
-other forums say the pcm plug has a magic pin 48 which is white and pink and is the tach wire.... DNE for me.
Id prefer a pcm wire to tap because it is away from the engine. If I have to do a coil wire please confirm which one and what it should read on a meter to confirm.
Also.... I have a PKFM immobilizer bypass. I have the rx ant tx wires hooked up as per instruction. should the orange wire go to the pats connector (type a)? or to ignition wire in the ignition harness? i have it hooked to the pats "ignition wire"...
To help back up my questions...
-cannot remote start truck. no parking light flashes (it is in auto mode) checked diagnostics said low battery/voltage (9 led blinks)
-cannot start with key in ignition, seems to be for same reason as above.
-once started with key, i can press remote start button on remote, remove key, leave vehicle, lock doors car stays on. disable engine by timeout/brake/rs button just fine.
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 26, 2010 at 4:45 PM / IP Logged  

AudioVox has this info on the Tach :

 Tachometer      LIGHT GREEN / WHITE  (AC)      AT PCM PIN 26 OF 104 CONN.

iDatalink has this info on the Immobilizer connections :

TX is WHITE/ Light Green at Pin 4
RX is Gray/Orange at Pin 3
The connector is about 8" down from the ignition switch. 
They recommend connecting the bypass ignition input ( Orange ) wire to the Ignition wire at the
Main Ignition Harness.

Here is a link to AudioVox for their wiring guide :  http://techservices.audiovox.com/login.aspx

Sign-up is free.

Soldering is fun!
slinky85 
Member - Posts: 25
Member spacespace
Joined: January 22, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2010 at 4:48 PM / IP Logged  
awsome fast reply thanks i will be trying these shortly and report back.
slinky85 
Member - Posts: 25
Member spacespace
Joined: January 22, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2010 at 6:27 PM / IP Logged  
connected the tach wire. programmed for tach input. programmed tach. blue valet light stayed on after 3 seconds. press remote start, fuel pump energizes ignition energizes. nothing. tries two more times. fail.
the purple starter wire never gets power. checked fuses, ok. i pressed the remote start button, then quickly jumpered 12v+ to the purple wire, car started =/. 2 seconds later car turns off. and tries the start process over again. why doesnt the brain activate the starter wire?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,787
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 26, 2010 at 6:49 PM / IP Logged  
Possibly a dumb question, but is Viper H3/9 RED / Black connected to +12v constant?  ( Actually H3/2. H3/6 and H3/9 are all going to +12v.)  Do you have both Ignition and both Accessory wires powered?
Soldering is fun!
slinky85 
Member - Posts: 25
Member spacespace
Joined: January 22, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2010 at 6:56 PM / IP Logged  
did all that reprogrammed for virtual tach for kicks... got the following diagnostics, i also switched between low voltage and default (tach jumper):
2 blinks: over rev, please emplain...
3 blinks: low or no rpm, again please explain...
5 blinks: brake input, I did that. once.
9 blinks: low battery
does it store all the shut down diagnostics? if so how do i clear?
How should the tach jumper be used for my truck? low voltage or regular? it is the coil on plug model but i tapped the coil wire at the pcm. #26 on 104 pin connector. light green with white stripe.
slinky85 
Member - Posts: 25
Member spacespace
Joined: January 22, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2010 at 6:57 PM / IP Logged  
checking all those positives right now. back in 5.
slinky85 
Member - Posts: 25
Member spacespace
Joined: January 22, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2010 at 7:14 PM / IP Logged  
ok here are my connections... this is my first 5701 install, previous successful installs were scytek8000, viper 791, and buldog r/s.
this is starting to make sense as i post it, but i will finish this post for confirmation
h3 connector
1pink = switched ignition on when key is in on, ready to crank
2red white, n/c, ( i think it should be)
3orange accessory = connected to heat/ac accessory power wire
4violet = spliced into starter wire(didnt connect grn yet)
5green = N/C im gonna wait till it all works before i do it
6red solid = connected to constant 12v+
7pink white = connected to ignition 2
8pink black n/c
9red black n/c
i guess i need to connect all these reds first, the install manual was vague enough to all these.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,787
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 26, 2010 at 7:22 PM / IP Logged  
Definitely need H3/2 and H3/9.  Also should use the DMM to check ignition harness for ACC2 ( Gray / YELLOW is ACC1 and BLACK/ Light Green is ACC2 ).
Soldering is fun!
slinky85 
Member - Posts: 25
Member spacespace
Joined: January 22, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: December 26, 2010 at 7:26 PM / IP Logged  
hot damn. kreg, you are right. thanks.
hooking up all 12v + inputs did it. done. works flawless.
now for my rant: (contains profanity please ignore)
Why the love cant viper put all 12v constants on the same circuit? its bad enough they need one for each connector ok its understandable. but loving 3 12v in for each part of the starting process. whatever i swear they do this complicated doodie for the same reasons car manufacturers layer engine components on top of each other.
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