cooling and sytem evaluation

resquchas wrote: I understand the whole "no room thing" but there is always a way. I just put a sub in a 61 vette that you can not see, but it is there. took some fabrication but i did it. Think outside the box as you clearly have begun to do. I would not do the fresh air scoop thing if that is what you are talking about, as under the car gets very dirty and wet. maybe mold a cool filter shape into a panel and then cover it with paint/upholstery. Hide it in plain sight, people freak when they look at something and still have to be told what it is.

I wish there was a like button on here like Facebook lol. that was inspirational Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

OldSpark,

         So then it wouldn't be putting a load on it in the same way as :If you were to take a computer fan and put your finger in the center of the fan slowing it down? I totally get what your saying though, and all the analogies make perfect sense. Its kinda funny how the mind has trouble letting go of certain thoughts or beliefs that you have thought to be correct for so many years. ya know?Thanks

resquchas,

          So what diameter of ducting are you thinking would be in order? the amps measure #1= 11"x17"x2.5" and #2= 9.5"x18.5"x2.5" and i was thinking about making the space around them about 1-2" on all sides. and the fan measures at Intake opening is 6.5"x2.5" and exhaust is 6.5"x.75"

Thanks

Oh and i forgot to mention that I'm not, nor was i ever considering the air scoop thing. Just thought it was funny.

My friend still thinks it would be a great idea, and cant believe I'm not on the same page as him.

seattlejoe1970 wrote: So then it wouldn't be putting a load on it in the same way as If you were to take a computer fan and put your finger in the center of the fan slowing it down?

If you think the airflow-restricted fan slows down, then it should be like fingering the fan.    But my experience is the opposite - ie, cavitation and speeds up - and consumes LESS power. Maybe the current/power increases as the restriction increases, but eventually it drops. Hence a "blocked fan" should last longer assuming it doesn't overheat (no air flow) and doesn't out-spin its bearings (too fast).

The ducting needs to be small enough to meet your needs and with as few bends as possible to provide laminar airflow. So a small straight shot is better than large with lots of 90's. Sorry, but there are many variables. Go as large as you can and as smooth as you can. It is ok to make a small sacrifice if you make up for it in another area. I always try to keep the crossectional area near the same as the opening. ( 6x6=36insq)So if i need to make a false passage that is only 3inches high i keep it till i transition before the fan and then the duct itself. In your car I might be tempted to do a false floor as that could get me to the rear inside quarter trim panels then its easy to route a 6in duct in there with a filter that is easily mounted to the NEW upholstered panel. I think you are doing this absolutely correct, in that you are thinking BEFORE doing. That always saves TIME MONEY FRUSTRATION. And you end up with exactly what you want. NICE.The RIGHT way is the ONLY way.

OldSpark,

          I feel you growing tired of the lecture, And I'm not trying to beat this into the ground. nor am i trying to test your patience. Just wanted to fully understand the facts of the matter. please know that your words do not fall on deaf ears. And are truly appreciated. Ive always thought that if you don't learn something everyday, It was a wasted day. Thank you very much for your time and knowledge.

resquchas,

          Understood. And I'm definitely going to give this aspect of the project allot more thought,And ill keep your words in mind while doing so. Ive already got a couple thoughts in mind that are going to have to wait till this weekend to investigate.  Thank you for your encouragement and sharing your own experience with me.

It might take me a few more weeks to complete because I'm only able to work on it during the weekends. but ill try to post picks when i do finish it. And if it finishes out as well as it has started. Ill be very pleased. And it should .

         Thanks again to everyone!

seattlejoe1970 wrote: OldSpark, I feel you growing tired of the lecture, And I'm not trying to beat this into the ground. nor am i trying to test your patience...

No Joe! My intent re "If you think the airflow-restricted fan slows down..." was "if it does slow down" - ie, because you know that or have observed that. (IE - if it slows it is under greater load and should therefore take higher current to compensate. That is generally how motors etc work AFAIK.) But I have yet to (knowingly) observe that... But in my experience, blocking "fan air" has always resulted in the fan speeding up. And the few times I have measured it, the current has decreased. I can't say that I know nor have studied what happens with varying restrictions around normal flow rates, but that was too complicated compared to simpler and more direct or meaningful air-flow detection methods so it was never worth studying (from the POV of detecting blocked filters OR lost flow hence eventual overheating). Learning something everyday can be a luxury, and the other days simply boring or "a day off" rather than being wasted. After all, ask enough & you learn enough. Think enough and you may not need to "learn" (from others) - you develop & teach yourself. But as per resquchas - to think before building etc, isn't that sensible? (It often is in retrospect!) I'd rather ask a dumb question than do a dumb thing. (Though the "dumb thing" may be enjoyable in itself - and less embarrassing....)

In our boat I did an install that is encased in acryllic so I could use the storeage area without worrying about the amps getting hit with stuff. I used 4 of the stinger cross-flow fans and also wired them with an adjustable temp switch so they come on when the amps reach a specific temp. Going overboard as I normally do I also installed a couple sensors and a Cyperdyne Amp Temp display . I can switch between each of the amps to monitor their temp independently. I raised the amps up off the mounting board by 1/2" so air can flow around all sides of the amp.

I went with a straight cross flow with all fans pushing instead of doing a push pull which I thought about. I have it set so there is an intake on top of the fans and an exit on the other side.  I did not use any filters, but this is in a boat so dust is not really an issue.

James

The salt is the issue.... But yeah - push is usually better than pull or suck. Most experimenters etc report that they are either similar ELSE push is better.