critique this setup

Hello everyone, I'm new here and new to car audio in general. I want to upgrade my car's audio system and after doing some research I found this really informative site. I think I've figured all of the components out but I want to run it by knowledgable people before I pull the trigger. I'm getting 2 speakers in the front and 2 low profile subs in the back and a 4-channel amp to power it all. The 2 speakers in the front doors will be Pyle 6.5 inch 3-way speakers rated at 180 watts RMS at 4 ohms. In the back doors, will be 2 low profile subwoofers that I'm putting in the doors I'm not building separate boxes for them. They are 6.5 inch subs rated at 150 watts RMS at 4 ohms The amp is a 4-channel 2000 watt amp rated at 250 watts x 4 channels RMS at 4 ohms. The amp has 4 channels so each component will have its own dedicated channel on the amp so no need to run anything serial or parallel. The amp's RMS rating for each channel is more than each component requires so that should be fine. I plan to use 0 guage wire for the amp since its more than 2000 watts and 12 guage wire for the speakers. The amp has 2 x 40 amp fuses. If I did the math correctly that gives the amp a 60% efficiency rating which is good enough. I'm having it all professionally installed and want to go into the shop armed with as much knowledge as possible so I don't get duped. Basically I'm looking for any and all feed back for this setup. Is it ok to have speakers and subs on the same amp? Are the brands I'm using ok? Lanzar? Pyle? Kicker? Did I do the math correctly regarding the amp's true wattage out put? Can anyone foresee any problems with this setup? I'm new to this and am eager for the advice/criticisms of you veterans. I don't want to make any mistakes and ruin my car and or waste my money. Thank you all in advance. Kicker CompVT 08CVT654 6.5-Inch 4-Ohm 165mm SVC Subwoofer Pyle PL63BL 6.5-Inch 360-Watt 3-Way Speakers in the front doors Lanzar-MAXP4260 amplifier

if the amp has a max possible current of 80 amps and supply voltage is 14 volts( best case scenario) then the most it can produce in watts is 14 x 80= 1040 watts at 100 percent efficiency which is never the case. with EVERYTHING in life you get what you pay for, pyle and lanzar are not high quality components. kicker is very reputable though.The RIGHT way is the ONLY way.

Pyle...no...especially if you are going to power them don't waste your money on an amp with out decent speakers Lanzar...eh...never had or heard, possibly similar to my friends Hifonics which is fine. kicker...good If that is the kind of response you were looking for there it is..... If you would like to have a better understanding of what things to look at when selecting audio components then answer the following questions so I/we can better assist you. What is your car? Year, make, model What is your budget? What are you looking to achieve sound wise? Loud, BASS!(SPL), clear(SQ sound quality), etc. Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

The car is a 2008 suzuki sx4. My battery is 12 volts. I don't really have a specified budget but I don't want to spend thousands. I'd say $500 total for everything. What can you guys recommend with that budget? I'm looking for an upgrade from the factory speakers. I want something clear and loud good sound quality.

I recommended getting a Head Unit as part of this upgrade. Also are you willing to give up trunk space for a subwoofer or is that why you were looking at those kickers? There are solutions for both cases. Have you gone to the shop and looked around to see what they have? My local shop has very reasonable prices for everything (even though I don't use them for anything myself anymore). If they are going to be the ones installing it they usually like to be the ones who sold it to you. I would go and tell them what you want and your budget and have them write down what they have and recommend to you including installation. Which is going to be a bigger chunk than I think you are expecting. Bring a CD that you know very well and ask to listen to it on the speakers they recommended, if they have demo equipment like that(they should). Have you considered doing it yourself if you are on that tight of a budget? There are a lot of great places to find help and how to videos and such, not to mention this site . Seriously go to the shop though and just tell them that you have to think about it at the end. Then let us know what they said and what you think about it.Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

I am definitely getting a head unit. I wanted to do the project in  2 stages I'm getting the speakers and amp first then the head unit. The head unit I'm getting is the Kenwood Excelon DNX 9960 or the JVC HDT3NHD I haven't decided yet. Both got rave reviews from people who own them. I've had 2 pioneer nav units and they are horrible. I would never touch another pioneer product with a 10 foot pole and I'm telling everyone to stay away from pioneer they suck I know from experience I've had 2 separate units (AVIC F Series) and both of them broke. But I'm leaning towards the Kenwood because the navigation software is garmin and the screen is slightly larger. The JVC has HD radio built in though.

I dont want the huge 10' and 12' sub I don't think it's really necessary. Originally I didn't even want subs because of the space issue. I just wanted some great 3 or 4-way speakers and an amp to power them so they'd sound good but I found the low profile kicker subs so I went with them.

I haven't gone to a shop. I knew from the start that  I wanted it professionally installed. I want the installation to be clean and done by pros so I know it's done right. But I also wanted to get as much info as possible about the entire thing before I went into a shop because I didn't want to get hosed. I feared they'd see I was a noob and take advnatage of my ignorance on all things car audio. I wanted to prevent that from happeneing to me.

You've given me some good advice so I'll def go into some shops I scouted out. I know my car isn't a mercedes or anything but it's mine and I care for it like it's a Mercedes. It doesn't help that I'm very mistrustful of mechanics.

I wanted to say that if this is a two stage process, I highly recommend doing the source unit first. this will eliminate problems down the road. Also your car is only 12volts when sitting, it is more like 13 volt average when running, and your alternator runs the vehicle. That is why i used the 14 volts in my equation. shallow mount subs are for depth issues , and only minimally effect overall internal volume.( relatively speaking) if you have the depth the non shallow version will play more accurately down low due to its increased excursion capabilities.The RIGHT way is the ONLY way.

resquchas wrote: I wanted to say that if this is a two stage process, I highly recommend doing the source unit first. this will eliminate problems down the road.

I HIGHLY AGREE Since you said you were not interested in a subwoofer and I was just looking through some old bookmarks I believe you are a perfect candidate for some of these transducers. They are cheap and don't need a lot of power and you could mount one under each of your front seats.Dodge Magnum in progress:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS - PPI Amps - Dayton Subwoofer(s) - Exodus Anarchy's - Vifa Tweeters - Kinetik Battery

Thanks for the suggestion. The transducer doens't look like it produces sound/bass so that may not fit my purposes.

I went back to the drawing board since I had to dump the lanzar amp and pyle speakers since you guys don't recomend them. I'm glad I dodged that bullet thanks to you guys your feed back has been helpful keep it coming please.

I never considered component speakers at first because they looked like a hassle but after reading up on it they don't sound so bad. It sounds much better than getting four 4-way speakers and a big amp to power them.  I may go with component speakers and a smaller amp to power them. I narrowed down the component speakers I want and a smaller amp. The speakers got nothing but great reviews. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6501/Polk-Audio-db6501.html?tp=106

The specs say the RMS rating for the speaker are 100 watts at 4 ohms for each side which totals 200 RMS total. Does that mean its 50 watts RMS at 4 ohms for each speaker? So the amp I buy should be a 4 channel amp with at least 50 watts RMS for each channel? Does all 6 speakers have to be hooked up to the amp or just the woofers and crossovers? Can I put the woofers in the rear and the crossovers int he front or does it not matter? I do have tweeters at the top of the drivers and passenger doors.

The idea behind a transducer is that it gives the PERCEPTION of more bottom end. The science of sound is amazing and we do not hear things like you think we do. Read up on it. The transducer makes your mind( which is what is ultimately hearing/ feeling all this, not your ears. the ears are just input devices) think there is more bottom end than there is. You actually hear something that is not there. Yes it works. Everyone hears differently and you may not even HEAR below 30hz, but feel it you will if you have the system to reproduce that wave. As far as tweeters in the upper parts of doors, not always a great solution. You can have some serious crossover and frequency cancellation issues. It is generally accepted that the tweeter should not be further away than the diameter of the midwoofer to keep things in phase. I am not saying it can not be done, just that more is NOT NOT NOt always better. Especially for accuracy and where imaging is concerned.The RIGHT way is the ONLY way.