You are
seriously underpowering those subs. To get the most out of them, you would need an amp that pushed close to 2000RMS x1, or 1000RMS x 2.
If you are only planning on throwing apx 500 watts to each sub, I'd return the subs for a pair of RFD2110 Punch HX2's and save some money. They're 1 step down from the RFR3110 Power HX2's that you currently have. They are still 2ohm DVC's, but run 500RMS 1000Peak. IMO they would be a better match for any amp that was pushing 1000x1 @ 2ohms or 500x2 @ 4ohms.
If you're set on what you have, based on your choices I'd suggest the MTX81000D. Reasons why...
1) You have Two 2ohm DVC subs, which means you can wire 1 sub per channel @ 4ohms, or bridge 2 subs per channel @ 2ohms (I'm not going into the 0.5, 1, or 8ohm configurations).
2) Based on that, the RF 1050S will only give you 262.5 x 2 @ 4ohms (you can't wire for the 525 x 2 @ 2ohms or 1050 x 1 @ 4ohms since you have Two 2ohm DVC subs)
3) The MTX Thunder942 will only give you 175 x 2 @ 4ohms (again because you can't wire for the 350 x 2 @ 2ohms or 700 x 1 @ 4ohms since you have Two 2ohm DVC subs)
4) That leaves the MTX 81000D. You
can get the 1000 x 1 @ 2ohms (but can not get the 500 x 1 @ 4ohms since you have Two 2ohm DVC subs). So you're looking at apx. 500 watts per sub, which is the most out of the 3 available options you gave.
I'm not sure about MTX, but I know RF amps have a high tendency to outperform their specs, and I believe are usually 70-75% efficient at the least.
MTX and RF make quality amps. As long as there is enough airflow around the class AB amps, then you will not have to worry about them getting too hot when bridged.
Go with the manufactures recommended gauge (or lower if you can get away with it). If it calls for 0/1 gauge, use it along with 0/1 ground. Same for the 4 gauge. For example, some amps say use 4 gauge, but will accept as large as 2. Feed it what you can (but do not use a smaller gauge wire though! I mean don't run an 8 gauge power wire when it calls for at least 4).
The main difference between Class AB and Class D amps is Stereo vs. Mono wiring capabilities.
BTW, did you upgrade your trucks electrical system to 14.4volts? All the specs I posted were based off of the 12volt specs from the manufacturer's sites, I noticed yours were based off of 14.4v.
Here's the wiring options you have for 2ohm DVC's...
Best one for a class D amp (or class AB 2-channel amp bridged to 1 channel) that is
2ohm stable using 2 2ohm DVC subs
Other Mono/bridged configurations for 2 2ohm DVC subs
Best one for a Class AB 2-channel amp using 2 2ohm DVC subs (1 sub per channel, or only running 1 sub per mono amp)
Other Class AB 2-channel amp configuration using 2 2ohm DVC subs (1 sub per channel, or only running 1 sub per mono amp)
Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
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