2011 honda crv

Hi All- Just got a 2011 CR-V. Haven't done an install in quite a while. Looking to do a viper 5901 and trying to choose a bypass with D2D to minimize my wiring. I'm having trouble finding info on 2011 (cutoff seems to be 2010), but it seems that I have possibly narrowed it down to: DB-ALL or Fortin Honda-SL3 I am an enthusiast, not a full time installer, so in my considering I'd like the ability to easily update the firmware when necessary. In a perfect world I'd like to only use a laptop and USB cable (or similar easy setup), although I'm not opposed to having to buy special connectors/etc if necessary. If anyone could shed some light on if either of the above would work, or if one is preferred over the other, or something else, and then how easy it us to update firmware when necessary, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

2011 is the same as a 2010 so i'm sure either will work. The sl-3 should be more cost effective because it does not have the ability to control door locks. Also because it's only a transponder bypass and it comes preloaded there will never be any reason for a firmware upgrade. Hardwiring locks/factory alarm arm and disarm along with the sl-3 would be my recommendation.

crv is a very easy car to do. if you want to really save time the best bet is the idatalink module. it will doo door locks disarm, etc. IMO the hondasl3 will be cheapest and you can hardwire everything else. easy access to everything.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

thanks all!

Planning my install and have a few questions before I get started. Doing a Python 991 and DBALL bypass into 2011 Honda CRV. 1- Do I need to wire up the dome light (not for door trigger but illumination) or will it come on when bypass sends factory disarm? 2- Do I need to go w/a hardware TAC, or does the new “sense” TAC work well enough, or is the tac output from DBALL good enough? 3- Several questions regarding remote start harness. Manual lays out the following: Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin Connector H3/1 – Pink: + Ignition 1 input/output H3/2 – RED / White: (87) Flex Relay +12v input (30a fused) H3/3 – Orange: + Accessory output H3/4 – Violet: + Starter output (car side) H3/5 – Green: + Starter input (key side) H3/6 – Red: Ignition 1 +12v input (30a fused) H3/7 – Pink/White: (30) Flex Relay Output (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) H3/8 – Pink/Black: (87a) Flex Relay Input (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) H3/9 – RED / Black: Accessory/Starter Relay +12v Input (30a fused) 3a: Wiresheet shows vehicle to have Accessory 2. From what I can tell I have no Accessory 2 output. What to do? 3b: What is H3/6? Is that just a constant 12v+? Like what I will find in the harness (and also use to power alarm?) 3c: What is the “flex relay output” referenced in H3 2, 7 and 8? 3d: What is H3/9? I’m sure I will have more questions as I finish mapping everything out. Thanks for any responses.

2011 honda crv in preparing for my install im trying to identify and meter all the wires i need for my alarm. im having trouble finding the following: power lock/unlock, neg polarity wire chart says blue for lock at "driver kick, door harness. if i'm looking in the right place, i have a few blues of various awg coming of the the driver door at the kick. they seem to be -12v constant with very little fluctuation when i hit the lock button. so in other words i don't know if i have the right lock wire or not and not sure how to test if i do or not. icu green (s-net) and pink (b-can) wirechart says icu is near ignition key switch and has a white 7 pin wire harness. i can't find it. is it under the dash or do i need to take apart the steering column? can someone tell me where it is and what it looks like? is there a way to meter to make sure i'm tapping into the correct wires? thanks!

1st, look behind the fuse box towards the firewall. You will see the harness from the door there. it will rst at 12volts, but use the key in the drivers door cylinder to check for it reversing to ground(NOT the switch).

2nd, remove the shroud around the column. near the ignition cylinder you will see two plugs. One will have 6 pins and the other 7. Go here and punch in your car, then open a PDF. It will show a diagram of the plug and where to get it, including a wire color chart...

http://www.idatalink.com/flashlogic/

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Thanks Mike- i found what I need off the icu by the keyswitch. however, i am still baffled by these locks: first, there are two wiring harnesses coming from the door, but only one has both a blue and gray that i'm looking for. this is the harness i am metering. there are 14-16 awg blue and gray wires, but there are also a set of much smaller versions (gotta be around 24 awg). i am metering the 14-16. the gray (unlock) sits at 0 volts, then goes +12 when i hit the switch or do the driver key. this seems like the opposite of what it should be doing, i was expecting it to sit at 12+ then go negative. also, i can't see any activity on the blue (lock). seems to stay at 0. i am totally confused and not sure how to wire these up or if I am even in the right place. help please?

you prob have the correct wire, but since you know you need a negative trigger, you want to rest for a negative "signal" red probe to constant 12v black to unlock wire you are testing. the meter when set to 20vdc will show 0V, when you activate the switch or key in the driver door it should show 12-14v. that indicates you have the correct wire. if you let go of the switch or deactivate the function it will drop back to 0.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

They are the smaller wires running from the door boot, normally a pain to get to on most hondas, should also be a same size factory disarm wire in that same set of wires too.