opinions from the masses, spl on a budget

Normally if your amp has 3x40A fuses = 120A you would have more than 120A as a main (battery) fuse - unless perhaps you wanted to replace one main rather than 3x40A fuses (ie, like the 100A you have now - not that that means the 40A fuses won't suffer heat degradation etc, or that the 100A will blow before the 3x49A fuses). Keep in mind however that the main fuse is sized to protect its downstream cable - NOT the amplifier! (But the main fuse can be less than the cable's rating.) And BTW - Mitsubishi alternators shouldn't be confused with Mitsubishi vehicles. They are commonly used by other marques (eg Nissan) but may be re-badged. And I'm not sure of the inter-relationships, but there may be some commonality or re-branding between Mitsubishi & Hitachi. Mazdas here normally have ND (Nippon Denso) alternators; typically the 3-wire types (SIL) during the 1980s & 1990s. [ S=Sense is great because that goes to the battery +12V and measures the actual battery voltage whereas I (Ign) is IGN +12V and may have voltage drops. L is the typical chargeLamp circuit (as used for carburetor electric fuel pumps and the UIBI battery isolator). ]

gd call on the saz, u do need a gd mono amp , i found a alpine on sale mrp-m1000 for $202 cause the newest alpine mrx-m100 was hittin the shelves, thats around 40% off, it a 1000 @ 2 ohm but hang on tto that rf itll come into play with ur escort, specially when ur saz drowns out ur fronts1000 watts of lp, now need sum hp an mids

sthrnbmpn wrote: gd call on the saz, u do need a gd mono amp , i found a alpine on sale mrp-m1000 for $202 cause the newest alpine mrx-m100 was hittin the shelves, thats around 40% off, it a 1000 @ 2 ohm but hang on tto that rf itll come into play with ur escort, specially when ur saz drowns out ur fronts

oh snap fo realz son...