f350 subs set up

Hello all,

First let me thank the everyone for the tons of info, it hs been very useful to me thus far.

Now, the meat of why I came. I have a 2008 F350 Crew Cab H-D edition. Due to the lack of space behind the rear bucket seats I am going to remove my center console that sits between the buckets and build a box to house 2 drivers. I just wanted to see if I was missing and key factors in my build that anyone might point out. P.S. Been out of hte Car Audio light for about 13 years now so I have no real idea of what new technology is out there =p

First the Componets.

The head unit is the factory one for now.

The Amp is a Kicker DX500.1

The Drivers are 2 12" Kicker C SVC 4 Ohm have a recommended space of 1.25-3.5 cubic feet.

I am going to fab a sealed box that is 16W x 17H x 32D which should give me a volume of almost 4 cubic feet/ 2 cubic per chamber. I am going to add about 1.5lbs of fiber fill to each chamber which should take me to almost 2.5 cubic feet per chamber. The Subs will be facing down at the floor with about a 4" gap between the floor and the subs.

Sound like a decent setup for what I have?

POWER [watts], CLASS D 2 OHM MONO:	500
REMOTE BASS INCLUDED:	yes
REMOTE BASS CAPABLE:	N/A
DIMENSIONS [in, cm]:
[all models 2-1/4H x 8-5/16W x ... L]	10-1/4"
[all models 5.7H x 21.1W x ... L]	26cm
COMMON TO ALL MODELS
FREQUENCY RESPONSE [Hz]:	25-200, +0/-1dB
INPUT SENSITIVITY:	high level 250mV-10V, low level 125mV-5V
SIGNAL-TO-NOISE RATIO:	>95dB, a-weighted, re: rated power
ACTIVE CROSSOVER:	18dB/octave, variable 50-200Hz, low pass only [DX250.1 24dB/octave, fixed @ 80Hz]
SUBSONIC FILTER:	- 18dB/octave high-pass variable 10-30Hz [DX250.1 24dB/octave high-pass fixed @ 25Hz]
KickEQ™ BOOST:	variable to +12dB [DX250.1 selectable 0 or +9dB], centered @ 40Hz

POWER [watts], CLASS D 2 OHM MONO:	500
REMOTE BASS INCLUDED:	yes
REMOTE BASS CAPABLE:	N/A
DIMENSIONS [in, cm]:
[all models 2-1/4H x 8-5/16W x ... L]	10-1/4"
[all models 5.7H x 21.1W x ... L]	26cm
COMMON TO ALL MODELS
FREQUENCY RESPONSE [Hz]:	25-200, +0/-1dB
INPUT SENSITIVITY:	high level 250mV-10V, low level 125mV-5V
SIGNAL-TO-NOISE RATIO:	>95dB, a-weighted, re: rated power
ACTIVE CROSSOVER:	18dB/octave, variable 50-200Hz, low pass only [DX250.1 24dB/octave, fixed @ 80Hz]
SUBSONIC FILTER:	- 18dB/octave high-pass variable 10-30Hz [DX250.1 24dB/octave high-pass fixed @ 25Hz]
KickEQ™ BOOST:	variable to +12dB [DX250.1 selectable 0 or +9dB], centered @ 40Hz

I have been building speaker boxes for over 20 years and have experimented with various box designs and sizes for many different types of speakers and all sizes up to 18 inch woofers. Build a box for your speakers that have a 1.5 cubic foot interior volume for each chamber that has a port size of 2.5" diameter at 6.5" long. I have built many boxes this size for 12" woofers with different name brands and power handling capacities using this port size and have never had any problems with sound quality or performance. In fact all of them have sounded awesome. To be realistic, your ear is not that fine tuned to where you will be able to tell much of a difference between a 1.5 cubic foot to a 2 plus cubic foot. It is all in the thickness of the wood, the design and workmanship. built it to be very sturdy. If there is a noticeable difference then it is most likely craftsmanship. Lightly fill each chamber with poly fill, that's it, do not pack it in there. Adjust your amp gain and variable crossover frequency within reason and you should have a very nice system to enjoy and others to be envious of. Your specs on the amp show to be 500 watt, but looking at the brand of speaker you have I notice they have a 150 watt capacity. Why such a powerful amp for that capacity speaker? Also from past experience...You could use a 75 to 100 watt higher quality amp and have an awesome sounding system that will shake your entire truck. So in summation...build a sturdy box with a 1.5 cubic foot chamber for each woofer, use a 2.5" by 6.5" port, lightly fill each chamber with poly-fil and adjust gain and crossover frequency within reason.jpeterman15

Thx for the response jpeter!

I was going for a sealed box because I read that vented boxes need more volume and as I said, room in my F350 is very tight so space is my enemy.

I am on a limited budget thats even tighter now having to spend over 400.00 at the vet for my great dane today =(.

But my plan is to upgrade the subs as soon my budget allows. So I sacrificed the better subs for the better amp since amps are gennerally more expensive.

If the subs are facing down, I only have one place to put the ports and that would be coming through the back of the box. would that be a problem??

You can put ports anywhere as long as they are not blocked of course.

I did some investigation on your speakers. I found the correct thiele-small parameters for your speaker. I ran the specs through the program I use for a sealed box and came up with an internal volume of 1.25 cubic feet, the exact same as the manufacturer suggests for the minimum box size. Here is a link to the specs for your speaker and it also shows the minimum and maximum box sizes for sealed and vented boxes. Follow what this PDF says and you should have no problem with the minimum sealed box size you need to fit between your seats. It even tells you what size to cut your wood pieces at.

The link is...http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/2007Comp.pdf

jpeterman15