01 porsche boxster s, compustar

I've decided to take on installing my compustar cm6200 (and RF-1bAM). Looking at the wiring diagrams online, I have a few remaihihg questions. 1. What should I connect CN1 pin 1 White (Accessory) wire to? all of my diagrams show accessory/hvac as n/a??? 2. does the ground trigger for relay (blue/85) (the one that is supposed to connnect to ground when armed) meant to connect to pin 1, CN2 (blue/-250mA output to starter kill)? 3. is it correct to wire cn1, pin 6 (parking light output) to right side parking light, and CN2 pin 3 for the left side parking light output? 4. is there any reason NOT to use the tach, which is what I was planning? 5. does it matter what i use for CN1, pin 4 (ground)? 6. Is there a priority lock output? 7. Anybody know the correct wire for clutch bypass? And the correct procedure (other than simply splicing the clutch wires together). 8. is there any reason to connect 2nd starter or ignition 2 and 3? 9. I have seen (conflicting?) info about the parking light circuit, with one mention of a need for two relays (at commandocaralarms wiring diagram). HELP. 10. rather than a transponder bypass, wouldn't putting the RFID right in the plastic ignition cover (on the inside) be easier, cheaper, better? 11. Any other newbie advice? Big things I might not be thinking about? Thanks for any and all help.

No offense but I don't even let my average tech touch a Porsche only the advanced. Take it to a shop...Gary Sather

well my car has never seen the inside of any shop for any purpose/ I've heard similar sentiments before ... but nobody can explain why. There's a wiring diagram -- it seems pretty straightforward. Most of my questions seemed pretty straightforward. What's so complicated about this car?

Nothing's that complicated except the cost of repair if as a rookie through lack of knowledge, foresight or preparedness you make an expensive mistake. I agree with you about the tach question, all the others re-read the instructions.

Incidentally, mounting the RFI chip as you suggested really won't work on any BMW, Mercedes, VAG/Porsche, you will need a 556U wired Euro style and are you running to the lights or indicators. If your unit has separate lighting outputs, then again read the instructions, they should be rated at 10amps each. If not or only one then 2 x 3 amp diodes and possibly a relay. ACC? It should show at the ignition switch. Have you even tested? My guess is the following. Either one or two red inputs. Black Ignition 1 BLACK / YELLOW or BLACK/ red ignition 2 RED / Black starter BROWN / Red or RED / yellow or yellow/red ACC. If you do the by-pass correctly with the 556 you won't need the starter cut.

The wiring diagram is listed online at many locations. None list the ACC wire, and most say N/A. My question was why? And if anybody could give me a wire color definitively. Testing I will do when I install. I do not understand at all why a RFI in my key would be picked up and not on in the ignition cover????? None of my other questions were in the CM6000 installation manual. Finally, two diodes (relay doesn't seem necessary) on the parking outputs would make more sense than 2 relays ... still I am left to wonder if with the compustar i can simply use the second parking light output ... separate circuit for each side (and avoid the diodes)

While the CM6200 has two Parking Light outputs, one is a +12V 10A circuit ( CN1-6 ) and the other is a negative

rated (-) 250mA ( CN2-3 ).  Using both to isolate the circuits is a good idea but you would still need a relay to convert the CN2-3 negative to a 10A positve output.

Using a 556UW as Howard mentioned will preserve the vehicles normal transponder security.  Having a chip always

present could cause problems with a normal key start if the vehicle sees two chips at the same time.

Tach mode is the most reliable method of remote starting.  With a manual transmission, you can not use

2-10 Opt 3 or 4.

The DEI info shows 3 Ignition wires, one Starter wire and no Accessory wires.  Assuming that your DMM testing

verifies this, you should power all 3 Ignitions with isolated outputs from the CM6200.

12volts                     RED / white        +  ignition harness

Starter                      yellow            +  ignition harness    Second Starter         N/A        Ignition                     black              +  ignition harness    Second Ignition        BLACK / YELLOW    +  ignition harness    Third Ignition            orange           +  ignition harness    Accessory                 N/A          Second Accessory    N/A    

Soldering is fun!

Thanks! Very helpful. If I understand correctly, I will need to use CN2, pin 7 to power a relay to obtain 12V for the second ignition? My other question would be what should I use from CN2 to power a second relay to obtain 12V for the third ignition? Or is there any easier way to power ignition 2 and 3? Thanks again,

If you have the OP-500 programmer you could change an unused POC wire in Special Option Group 2 to another (-) IGN2 output for another relay.

The CN2-7 is a 250mA output and should be able to actuate the coils on 2 relays with some to spare.  

Soldering is fun!

I thought of the answer to your first post, either the second or third ignition is the ACC. It's exactly the same as BMW where you treat the ACC as ignition 2. This is because the ACC not only doesn't dump during the crank cycle but is used in the ignition process. Again a lot of your questions would be answered by testing.