looking for an oe underhood fuse block

Not sure what topic to post this under, so I chose this one for the "convenience" part - lol. I'm looking for a fuse block (either PAL or flat blade - no matter) that mounts under the hood. 3-6 position is plenty. I prefer something that was on a production car because of price and (usually) I think the designs are better. The aftermarket stuff looks cheap to me and generally doesn't mount the way I want it to (on its side with bottom feed wiring)). This is a pic of a 4 fuse PAL holder that was on "some" 1993 Volvo 240s - it mounted on the positive terminal. They discontinued it because (their words) battery fumes corroded and shorted them out. I would have simply relocated it, but meh.....'nuther topic. Was just hoping someone would know of such a similar setup on another car. Thanks.

Most Japanese are similar.

hi, how much current per leg and total? mark

I use a similar 3-flink (fuselink) box off a Hyundai, though Toyota has similar. Both are battery-post mounting. Some are all plug-in flinks, others use a bolt-in center flink. I prefer the Hyundai because its centre-flink feed can be unplugged from the common battery+ rail and routed elsewhere (eg, for alternator to headlights). Otherwise lots use similar boxes that are wall mounted. My initial flink-box ideas came from late 1980s Mazdas (typically 5 finks, center was bolted.) Though originally Japanese, our local Holden (GM) and Fords started using the same about a decade ago. I'd consider boltable flinks from 40A upwards, but that is based on my experience with one hot & melting 40A flink. If its contacts were cleaner... As to battery corrosion eating connections, I'd fix the problem (overcharging). That should not be a problem - except over a long period whereby the contacts should be cleaned anyhow for "normal" corrosion problems as I described. If moving, I'd convert to a wall-mounted box. A trip to a wreckers should prove fruitful.

Yep - am going to the yard tomorrow to begin the hunt. Just wondered what cars to focus on as there's quite a few there - lol. I have seen the PAL's in alot of Japanese cars.....they seem to love the 60-100A fuses that literally FUSE themselves into the holders, but the ones I have seen have far too many positions for what I need. I have a similar one I pulled from a later Volvo 960 (8 position PAL) but really don't want to make the room for something that big on the car I'm building now. Most capacity I can see using or needing is 30-40A. The ones from the 960 and the mentioned 240, all have about 8ga wire running into them.

Hey Oldspark....Feebay AU has a "Holden" fuse box (tried to post a link but it wont take....)is item # 320355397123. Too bad they dont sell them on this side of the pond. Looks just like what I need.

LOL - know it well! I spent some time getting a Ford KE Laser (1989 Mazda 323) flink box att the wreckers. As I left, I noted that "those" Holdens had the SAME box, albeit with heavier wiring for the heavier flinks. (Hence I unplugged and reconnected to my Mazda equivalent.) That was the day I realised our local "non-Jap" cars had adopted Japanese electrics. IMO a very wise decision! (Not that our local electrics were bad, but Japanese electric "quality" is considered the best overall...). Some Fords were still using the older wire flinks, but later they too migrated to the PAL type flinks (which is what I suggest many 1970-1980 Jap wire-flinkers do to - not all that safe, and abosolutely (IMO!) STUPID flink ratings (as if they are THAT critical!)). Not that I get passionate about car electricals... or rather, "silly applications"... You have the Monaros over there. I think they a similar flink box. The VS crappadore (Commodore) is 1995-1997 vintage, but I know the VX (2000-2002) has the same or similar flink box. But it is the same as the Mazda 323 circa 1989-1990 ie, 5 flinks, though the Mazda was 80A central bolt in and 20 or 30 or 40(?) plug ins - all to the same common rail. Two 10mm (a tad over 3/8") nuts/bolts should remove the bracket with flink box from the vehicle, and big cable cutters to take as much cable as needed. Some cars have 2-flink boxes (30A for fans on the firewall; Madza and maybe Hyundai or Kia?). Some have PALs plus blades (ATC/ATS?). And newer boxes have the mini-PALs and micro-blades etc. FYI - The older Volvos (1980s? 240 etc??) have a cute junction box on the LHS of the engine bay. It's a 6-way (male) 6mm (1/4") spade connector with a 9mm male spade at each end, all in black rectangular plastic mounted with 2 self-tappers. The cover unclips (get a few extra for when you forget to replace the covers!). I've started using them instead of my air-cooled air-joins... (LOL!) It almost looks professional when used as "break out" or junction boxes for alternator or IGN +12V controlled relays and accessories etc.

I have a PILE of the old 240 junction blocks. If you come across a later Volvo 940/960 in a yard, inside just above the ECU is a couple of those junctions.....even better with larger spade connectors. You can't miss them as ALL the heavy wiring is bright pink - lol. I emailed the fella on Feebay AU about the Holden box. Picked up an 8 pos one today from a later Volvo 960 and will use it if all else fails.

Guy down under says shipping is $60 for one of these. I know shipping from there to here is on the insane side, but can't believe its that much for that small fuse block.

I'd visit a local wrecker.... See auspost-international parcel. For 1kg it's from AUD %30.75 airmail; $36.50 registered air, up to $67.55 for Express Courier International Merchandise. (Don't confuse the "Maximum Weight" column (20kg & 2kg) - it does the calcs for the weight entered in step 2.) We used to have relatively cheap rates, but that's the beauty of privatisation - costs increase. Not to mention all the added security processes to keep people gainfully employed - not that I ever get political!