dual zone proximity sensor

There is no need to be arrogant, not many people know of the vehicle even motor factors, I wasn't trying to be clever by any means, no it does not have a trunk light, would I be best adding this and connecting a sensor to this ruling out the need for another 508d? It is a viper alarm with page fob but I am unsure of the model no until I check the docs? What's so bad about this alarm?

I'm not being arrogant just all knowing, how do you think I knew it needed a Cat I alarm? And I guessed which one didn't I. Insert a trunk/hatch switch, far cheaper and IMO more reliable and effective*. The alarm you have is a 480XV and it's worst feature is that POS remote, usual lifespan about 6 months before the frequency crystal or battery mountings fail. And yes I do know more about your car and alarm than you do. *Ref the trunk switch, did the installers leave in the original ultrasonics? If that's the case your rear hatch should be covered, if not look at the owner's manual it shows you how to increase the sensitivity.

I do apologise must of just been wires crossed, that's true I believe all greys need a cat 1 usually? If I recall correctly they did not leave in the u/s sensors if it ever had any as there is nothing at the a pillar area, the blue wire has been run to the boot area I did notice this when installing a more oem fog location, is it just a case of drilling into the boot area for the switch and securing screw? In regards to the remote I also have a spare 4 button remote but has no paging feature.

All Euro market cars required a Cat II (immobiliser) at least before the individual vehicle got type approval or even insured for the UK, thus this also applied to Grey Imports. It's actually a PITA to mount a switch in the hatch area. I can't remember the last one but look very carefully, I think I used a long reach switch on the striker panel to one side. The blue wire is correct, but test, get it loose sit near the wire, close everything and turn off the proxy (via remote see owner's manual). Wait 5 seconds then ground (earth) the wire to a convenient piece of bare metal. If it triggers the alarm that's it. Most people end up using the plain remote, it's response time is faster. BTW The original installers should have installed a hatch switch along with a bonnet (hood) switch, MANDATORY for Cat I.

Ref the switch:- Back to Top

Seems I blew it, armourauto.com, page 535, PC5-53.

I see, that must be the reason many insurance companies insist on it. Pardon my lack of knowledge, but what is the striker panel? I will check that product out I assume it's a page of the catalogue, as I recognise the part number. Would it be simpler or even possible to connect a contact switch? I did wonder why they hadnt connected it, I assume they route the wire that far and realise there wasnt an existing switch so gave up, as the bonnet has been connected

The striker panel is where the lock is. What do you mean by contact switch? Technically ANY switch is a contactor!

I'm sure my lock is on the tailgate itself, it's on a hook type handle. Sorry, I didn't make myself clear, as in a switch with two pads that have to be touching each other? Thanks

As in a magnetic reed switch? Up to you.