2003 honda accord big 3 upgrade

I have a 2003 Honda Accord Ex with a 2.4L engine and I am looking to upgrade the big 3. I understand upgrading the positive wire from the positive terminal of the battery with the positive connection on the alternator, and the negative of the battery to the chassis, but I am having trouble with engine block to chassis upgrade. On my car, there is a short braided wire that connects the left side of the engine block to what looks like to be the wheel well of the vehicle. This connection doesn't look very good, as it is just connected to the body of the vehicle and not directly to the chassis. So my question is, should I upgrade this cable from the engine block mounting point to a chassis ground (maybe the shock mounting bolts)?, use the alternator mounting bolt to chassis ground (because apparently that is where absolute zero is)?, or just upgrade the cable to the existing spots on both ends? I would appreciate any help you guys could give me. Thanks

I would connect alternator mounting bolt to chassis ground.Support the12volt.com

Alright. So, i should just leave the engine block ground strap in the location it is, and just connect my 0 gauge wire from one of the alternator mounting bolts to chassis ground, correct? Also, should I think about making my chassis ground connection through a bolt in the subframe, or should I just make the easy run up to the shock top mounting bolts? The wire length would be shorter to the subframe, but not by much.

Honda designed the car with what it had, so its safe to say that upgrading the engine to chassis ground will work just fine. Ive never been a fan of braided ground strap because it gets ugly so quickly. It is thin though, which is nice. Your fenders ARE part of your chassis in a uni body vehicle such as yours, so don't worry about wiring directly to what you called your "chassis." Running your engine ground from your alt will look a bit cleaner, but i wouldn't imagine that it would increase any kind of current flow. Remember, the shorter the better! Though, when your dealing with high quality wire, it would take a substantial length to cause any real resistance. Hope this helps

I usually mount extra grounds from engine or gearbox to any chassis point. For vehicles under warranty etc these are added connections (to virtually negate warranty-claim issues). I often use the starter motor bolts - that's the biggest current draw on the engine, but any decent bolt/thread size... As to mounting to alternator brackets, when I see some meaningful data in support, I might also recommend it.

Thanks for all the info! I'll check the resistance on all the wires first, and play with a few options to see which one works out the best. Thanks again.