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2005 buick lacrosse remte start


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jsladky 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 14, 2012
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: February 14, 2012 at 9:25 AM / IP Logged  
Hello everyone. New to this forum in terms of membership, have been lurking for years lol.
Looking to install a remote starter on a 05 Lacrosse. Not 100 percent sure what modules/bypasses are needed for this vehicle..
Just looking for some options on what to buy. I looked the veh up on the xpresskit site but got a bit confused along the way. On top of that they wanted me to install some active x bit in order to "build" my remote start setup.
Can anyone help steer me in the direction of what to purchase? It does not need to be full of bells and whistles as remote start function is really all i am looking to add. Brand is not a issue here.
Thanks in advance for any help
Joe
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 14, 2012 at 1:32 PM / IP Logged  
check out www.ifar.ca or www.idatalink.com
those are rock solid bypass module manufactures.
what unit do you have your eyes on? basic remote start? alarm? both?
it all boils down to your preference of brand/style/features etc.
I would use the INT-SL personally, as it's cheap and does many features/cuts down install time.
Not trying to name drop, but I mainly install compustar strictly.
They are solid in my opinion and flexible as the blade-al bypass makes my installs much cleaner.
As long as you're not installing Chinese made alarms from ebay, you should have no issues. I don't support internet bought products (defeats the purpose of an authorized dealer), but that's for you to decide. Honestly, i'm oriental myself, and i wouldn't ever sell a cheap Chinese alarm, too many hassles. Not to say DEI, Compustar, Autopage,etc are not made in china. They are, but the user manual has been refined for the north american markets and we can understand them.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
pts760 
Copper - Posts: 403
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2009
Location: United States
Posted: February 14, 2012 at 4:28 PM / IP Logged  
We install compustar and crimestopper. I'm a fan of compustar but for a inexperienced installer the programming on them can be a nightmare without their programmer.
This is also the case for DEI units, along with, their over priced units. I would recommend a crimestopper RS4-G3. Solid unit, easy to install, and easy to program. This is only a 1-way unit though. 1-way or 2-way that's a question you have to ask yourself.
As far as bypass modules, I agree with tedmond but if I was to do this vehicle I would use a idatalink ADS-DLSL GM1.
ADS-DLSL GM1
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage
jsladky 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 14, 2012
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: February 22, 2012 at 5:15 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the help guys
Ended up going with the RS4-G3 and a INT-SL bypass. Looked over the instructions for each and it seems fairly straight forward. Ive installed a few DEI systems in the past and it seems easier. Even the manual seems to be worded better.
I do have one question however
The INT-SL wiring look like cake. I brought up the veh specific wiring from them, and since I am going the "with data" route its very simple. (I think?) Looks like pink wire to ign, purple to data line at the obd connector and tach to the tach wire OF THE RS. Yes?
My only real question is what wires do I not have to hookup on the actual RS system now? Obviously I need to hook up the heavy gauge "starter" wires and I would assume the fused power hookups, but what about the rest?
Am i right thinking I can eliminate the hookups for door lock/unlock, parking lights, trunk release, factory arm/disarm, etc?
I know i connect the two modules to each other with the data cable but there is not a whole lot documented in either manual when it comes to using the two together..I dont think I missed it...
Any help would be appreciated, thanks again
Joe
advanced 
Copper - Posts: 207
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2003
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: February 22, 2012 at 8:19 AM / IP Logged  

Not overly familiar with the Crimestopper. I installed one recently & it seemed pretty good. Fortin is an excellent choice, but I've only used that particular module a couple times.

Naturally, you need to hook up the heavy gauge wires & the ground wire. Most of the other stuff will work with D2D.

Looks like you'll also have to hook up the brake wire yourself & it's not clear if you'll have to hook up the parking lights. See if the parking lights work. If not, hook them up.

The only other comment is that once the tach signal wasn't very good (I think I had no tach signal during crank) on an INT-SL+, & I had to run a tach wire myself under the hood. That solved the problem. 

Good Enough Isn't!
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 22, 2012 at 2:50 PM / IP Logged  
anything dotted or grayed in colour will work by data without problems. the int-sl will handle door lock/unlock, trunk release, factory arm/disarm, trunk, sliding doors if equipped. Im not aware of parking lights. you can piggy back 2 modules together with the data cables.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
jsladky 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 14, 2012
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: February 22, 2012 at 3:11 PM / IP Logged  
tedmond wrote:
anything dotted or grayed in colour will work by data without problems. the int-sl will handle door lock/unlock, trunk release, factory arm/disarm, trunk, sliding doors if equipped. Im not aware of parking lights. you can piggy back 2 modules together with the data cables.
Your referring to the INT-SL diagrams (veh specific one)? If so, excellent, exactly what I needed to know. Thanks a ton guys!!
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 22, 2012 at 9:53 PM / IP Logged  
yes the vehicle specific one.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
jsladky 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: February 14, 2012
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: February 24, 2012 at 3:47 PM / IP Logged  
Well guys, did the install today and all works fine.
MUCH easier then the non D2D setups I have done.
Two hangups I had ill post here in case someone in the future is searching.
Data wires for the INT-SL : If you view the veh specific diagram and you intend to USE data, it tells you to hook up the purple wire to the data line behind the obd port, the ORANGE / black to the RS tach lead and the pink wire to ignition. What they dont tell you is that you MUST hook up the PURPLE / white wire from the int-sl to the data wire on the bcm. its z BLACK/ white wire and i believe it is pin 37.
Also when looking for the ignition wire for the RS in the ignition harness it is supposed to be a pink wire. There are TWO pink wires in the harness, the one you are looking for is next to the brown acc wire.
Overall it works well. Randomly I sometimes seem to get a "Service Theft System" message. Any idea?
Overall, simple install, thanks for all of your help!
Joe
pts760 
Copper - Posts: 403
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2009
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2012 at 1:12 AM / IP Logged  
I'm not familiar with that bypass but i know on the idatalink bypasses with that vehicle and that message that the gm-ring around the cylinder needs to b moved. Some GM's are very particular on where you place the gm-ring and will trip that code during the remote start sequence. Hope this aims you in the right direction.
I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

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