2008 chevy express/viper 5704/dball

The purple and green wires (keep in mind they are not connected) have continuity between them until the ignition is turned on with the key or when using remote start. If I were to tie the purple and green together, effectively removing starter kill from Viper, could that cause any harm? Seems like no since neither is connected to anything and they are basically just connected through a relay within the unit. When remote start is activated the accessories all turn on and the ignition circuit powers up. When it 'tries' to crank they all turn off, which is normal even with the key if I remember correctly. Bulldog diagrams show factory security as N/A; however the light green wire on the Silverado diagram (2007-2011) shows a 12volts and then when grounded you can hear a relay of shorts on the drivers side operate. It makes no difference though.

Don't connect the green and purple together. Just cut them and tape them off. Sounds like a bypass issue, disconnect the dball and does the vehicle function return to normal?Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Had already tied together, no affect on anything. They are taped off now again. Unplugging the DBALL does allow me to start with the key. I am using D2D. The DBALL constantly flashes green when trying to remote start, which is supposed to mean the GWR is active. I am going to try to connect the GWR status wire directly. It is behaving like it thinks the van is already running when trying to start, so it is making some sense. I think, anyway.

Thanks to everyone for the help. And for all the previous posts that indicated the buggyness of D2D. You would think Directed would be able to make products that work together. It is a joke that the DBALL instructions specifically state that no connections are needed in an entire wiring harness due to D2D, yet it won't operate properly without at least some connections. Hope the system continues to work in its current state. The W2W connection on the GWR fixed it immediately. All is working! (again) And it survived brake shutdown twice to restart again.

And the issues continue... I am convinced that the vehicle must have some sort of factory alarm on it. It doesn't happen all the time, but today when I disarmed the alarm and it triggered an alarm that sounded the vehicle horn. It could not be turned off by rearming/disarming. I got the key in the ignition before it stopped and the van started right up. However, I know think this is the source of the bypass error from a few days ago. If I don't get the key in the ignition before the horn stops on its own, it triggers an ignition kill that I can then only clear buy unplugging the DBALL. (I have also been reprogramming the DBALL, but that may not be necessary as I haven't tried without doing it.) I know that there is wiring to connect the Viper to the factory alarm to arm/disarm but, the wiring diagrams for the vehicle do not even show wiring for that. I'm not sure what the point to that is unless some add the Viper for RS only. Where would I connect the arm/disarm wiring? Again, the wiring diagram for the Silverado 2007-2011 calls for a connection to light green at BCM pink plug pin #20. My van has this connection. Should I just connect the Viper disarm OEM alarm output to it? Does anyone have any ideas on how I can get the factory system to stop going off?

the dball should take care of the disarm for you. worst case is you can wire the factory alarm disarm from the viper to the vehicle. make sure you test the wire. you cant turn off a factory alarm in that vehicle.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

The dilemma is that I don't know how to test that wire. The wiring diagrams for my van don't show a wire to connect to. Should I use the Silverado diagram? I do have a matching wire. It has 12v on it and when I ground it out I can hear a relay (it is not a standard relay sound however) operate somewhere on the driver's side. How would I confirm that it is right? Also, is there a way to 'turn on' the OEM alarm so that the light in the dash that is the padlock laying over the auto will illuminate or flash? Just wondering. It would be nice if it could, but it doesn't really matter. I am going to leave it for a few more days and see if it does it again and if the light on the dash is on when it does triggers the OEM system.

set meter to 20v dc, red to constant 12v and black to the wire you're testing. with the door closed, place a key into the driver door keyhole. turn it to unlock. the meter will register 12-13v as long as you hold the key in the unlock position. same applies for arm, but you hold it in the lock position.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert