camry 07 very weird remote starting issue

Hi all, I started to install the Audiovox prestige APS-901N (has all wires except starter 2 wire) remote starter to the Camry 07 XLE (key, no push start) with the Fortin Key-Override-SL2. I am using a relay to power the starter wire 2, enabling relay by the "pulse ground when crank" wire on the alarm unit. Relay is wired as follows: 87, 86 to power, 30 to starter , 85 to "pulse ground when crank" wire. Issue is vehicle keeps cranking but doesn't start. I tried followings: 1)Using DEI 556U, I removed Fortin and add the ring to the key, and it still only cranks, no start. 2)I inserted the Toyota key into keyhole and try remote starting, again only cranks. Interesting, I turn the key to ON position and hit the remote starter and it works. Should remote starting works if I Just insert key in keyhole without turning it to ON? If so, I suspect some wired is bad? Any idea what's wrong? Could it be the Fortin is bad? Or either one of the ignition 1 or ignition 2 connection is bad, hence position key ON works when remote starting? Weird thing is I buzz the connections out and they seem okay. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

This is wire connections: Ignition 1 : pink Ignition 2: yellow starter 1: blue starter 2: gray acc 1: white key sense : blue Fortin: 4th(RX data) and 5th(Tx data) wire at the keysense connector, according to their manual.

Found the problem: Mix ignition 1 and 2 wires. Swapping them work now. When I disable the alarm via Keysense grounding it, the OEM alarm on FOB no longer works. Is this normal? I added just remote starter, so I want to use continue using the OEM fob unlock /lock, possible?

yes that is normal. the only way to retain factory keyless and keep it working under start is use an idatalink module.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Thanks. I used the same starter on a Nissan Murano but with a DEI 556U. That combination somehow allows the usage of the FOB remote unlock/lock after I remote started it.

its not so much the combination of products used on the Murano, as that Nissan's FOB's continue to work while the car is running. Nothing special is needed on a Nissan to make those FOB's work while running, its just the design of the car. On the all Toyota's, The FOB's won't work while the car is remote started. Regardless if you hooked "keysense" up or not. as soon as the car sees ignition, the FOB's no longer function. There is a way around using a different bypass module. The company Idatalink has a Bypass module that not only does the bypass of the transponder, but also allows the keyless functions to continue to work under remote start. You still hook up the TX/RX wires from the idatalink, but also hook up 2 CAN wires located at the OBD plug. These connections allows the idatalink module to talk to the cars computer and allow the remotes to work. It also reads out your brake, locks, trunk, tach, door trigger, connections. Those extra connections are up to you to use and are not required since you already hardwired the 901N directly to the car.

All great info but what you already have will unlock the doors for you. Here's what you need to do, on the 4 pin plug that has the BLACK / YELLOW pulse during crank, connect the BLACK/ blue to the gray unlock wire in the DKP. Also, connect the BLACK/ green to the brown lock wire(not the motor wires but the arm/disarm wires). What will happen now is the drivers door will unlock when you hold the APS901N remote button down for 5 seconds whenever the RS is on. You will notice also the doors unlock during the crank process but relock after it starts and this is normal since the BLACK/ blue does two functions.

This wiring gives you a way to enter the car without using the key and is the way we always install on cars that the remotes don't work while running like yours. The only other option is to purchase a Can module from Idatalink as it will allow the OEM remotes to work like Tedmond stated...

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Yeah, what Mike said. the higher-end iDatalink modules keep the OEM remotes work during remote start, but cost more. If it's in the budget, it's a nice choice. So yeah, you can connect BLACK/ blue to the unlock wire in the car, and then BLACK/ green to the lock wire.........the car will unlock, remote start, then relock. Then you can push and hold the button on the aftermarket remote to open the doors. Here's another option, with one less wire and no silly unlocking and relocking. In the driver's kick panel, test every wire that comes in from the driver's door harness, until you find the wire that tests ground when you press the "unlock" button on the driver's door panel. This wire isn't listed in any of the tech sheets; you have to test for it and find it yourself. The connect your BLACK/ blue to that wire, and done. Don't connect the BLACK/ green to anything. How it works: On all late-model Toyotas, the unlock switch is disabled when the car is locked. Go ahead and test it for yourself---sit in the car, close the doors (and hood and trunk), lock with your remote, and then press the unlock button on the door panel.....it doesn't work. Now put the key in the ignition, start the car, and try it again....works now. So, when you activate the remote starter, the BLACK/ blue will make a pulse, but the car will stay locked. And then after it remote starts, then hold the remote button down, and it'll unlock just fine.

Good to know Chris. I do something similar on new Hyundias by connecting the unlock, disarm and detention wires together(diode isolated) and connecting to the BLACK/ blue. The pulse before it starts disarms but doesn't unlock and the pulse from holding it down unlocks....Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Wow that worke, awesome. Thanks Mike and everyone. Does this work for all types of remote starter or just this type of audivox. Seems weird how it works, since it doesn't say anything about this feature in the manual.