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what weird problems have you run into?

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tommy... 
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Posted: March 21, 2012 at 8:48 AM / IP Logged  
Hey Howie... Yes, losing the Auto-up/down feature... That was fun...
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soundnsecurity 
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Posted: March 22, 2012 at 11:27 AM / IP Logged  

racerjames76 wrote:
There is a known issue with the sensors on the ignition switches in most GM vehicles from 97-07. The sensors become loose or worn from repeated turning of the switch through every day use. Instead of recalling EVERY vehicle GM produced for 10+ years, they have issued numerous TSB's and notices to dealers and shops about either replacing the switch if still under full warranty, replacing the switch at the customers expense if out of warranty, or adding a toggle switch to the yellow passlock wire to tell the BCM to ignore the passlock system completely (the Security light will stay on).
I have never had any issue with the gm full size 5 wire door locks. You have to use the diagram that completely isolates the motor side. There should be no reason why the switch should be reversed either, as long as you get the 2 halves of the cut wire on the correct relay.

well this was a pretty long time ago so im willing to admit the possibility that i missed something but i was following a true 5-wire isolation diagram. the only difference between reverse polarity and 5-wire is the isolation. the only reason for the need to isolate is that the factory wires rest at ground so if you wire the locks any other way the fuse will blow. which is why i was so stumped because i tried to wire it different ways thinking i had to have done something wrong but no matter which wires i switched up the factory switch still reversed. very wierd.

maybe it was something special about those DEI lock relay modules that was causing it and it would have been better to use actual relays.

racerjames76 
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Posted: March 27, 2012 at 2:28 PM / IP Logged  
Easy way to tell which side of the cut wire is the switch and which is the motor, is to cut the wire and then press the button. If it shows 12v it is the switch side of the button you just pressed. Some times it isnt always easy to tell which end goes to the switch and which side goes to the car. :)
racerjames76 
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Posted: March 27, 2012 at 2:30 PM / IP Logged  
I just installed an audio system in a 2010 Yukon that had the Rear Seat Entertainment System (RSE). The lady came back today complaining her back speakers didnt work. I quickly realised she did not even know she had a RSE system, and that it was tuned to AUX/XM causing the rear speakers to "not play".
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: March 27, 2012 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged  
racerjames76 wrote:
Easy way to tell which side of the cut wire is the switch and which is the motor, is to cut the wire and then press the button. If it shows 12v it is the switch side of the button you just pressed. Some times it isnt always easy to tell which end goes to the switch and which side goes to the car. :)
or you can just hook it up and see if the fuse blows ;)
tedmond 
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Posted: March 27, 2012 at 10:46 PM / IP Logged  
i wouldn't take a risk to blow the fuse, in-case it shorted for wahtever reason. a fuse doesn't "break" exactly at its amp rating. there is a tolerance of 10%, so personally, an extra minute to use my dmm is a safe route to preventing costly repairs.
Ted
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soundnsecurity 
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Posted: March 28, 2012 at 3:15 PM / IP Logged  
that was a joke... guess it wasnt funny... i apologize
tommy... 
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Posted: March 29, 2012 at 10:36 AM / IP Logged  
I saw the wink... But i think your sarcasm font is broke... ; )
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