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viper 5901. 2010 f150 xlt


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egejo 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: June 19, 2012
Location: Ecuador
Posted: June 20, 2012 at 1:46 AM / IP Logged  
Hi to all,
First of all these is my first post but believe me I have done lots of research now...thanks to these forum and I believe is the best place to get more info now to get hands to work after I verify the information I compiled.
Please could someone guide me to don't fried my car...If what I'm going to do is correct and clear out some question I still have during the process.
I need help in installing my Viper 5901 on my Ford F150 XLT 2010. I want to install first only the alarm and remote start bypass 556UW module, later on I have many more modules to keep adding as I purchase almost all. I have the Tilt sensor, audio sensor, backup siren, backup battery, dual zone motions sensor, Voice module 516L. Unfortunately I have visited lots of installation places and no one even wants to touch these alarm here at Ecuador on these car as they said it these car is too delicate on the electronics and I can feel they don't know mostly.
First I have found the corresponding wiring for these car at these link:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=991
Also I found these other link telling about someone that installed too these alarm on a F150 2010 but FX4 and I believe not installed completely.
http://www.f150forum.com/f38/viper-5901-install-75334/#post696493
Which referred me to these photos of points to wire to into the car:
http://www.f150forum.com/f38/2010-remote-starter-wiring-info-pics-match-71887/
Also here I found in thse forum a few more info from KREG356:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=120108&tpn=1&PN=1#reply
But even after all these I have a few wires that aren't too clear where or what to do.
So I have created a spreadsheet that compiles what I have learned and my questions and what I plan to do. Please could someone take a look at it and help me? I couldn't upload it here so post it as picture whit a code on the first column for responses and know what we are talking about.
Photo in Here!
I plan to do a complete guide after all is done for further reference in the future for other on How I made everything with photos and all details possible..So please help me complete it!!
Sorry for my English is not my native language ;)
tony_g 
Copper - Posts: 86
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: June 20, 2012 at 2:38 PM / IP Logged  
after looking through the links you provided it should be a straightforward job.
the main point is to use a multimeter and test/verify that the colors and polarity of the wires in the guides do match what is in your truck.
your last post of the spreadsheet with additional wires you had questions on does not open so maybe list them in the post as just the harness numbers/wire colors and we can help by giving info on what ones are needed and which are not.
you will definately need some diodes if you dont already have them 1N4004 are the favourite choice and you may need some automotive relays,always handy to have some in the toolbox.
as for the later addition of sensors the phrase "less is more" comes in here.ive never had/used more than two in a vehicle and some peoples preference is just the 5o8d on its own with nothing other than the included shock sensor with the 5901.
as for your comment that the auto shops wont do it as they say the vehicle is too delicate to install that applies to just about all modern vehicles today that use more modules and onboard computers for engine management and system communication, or maybe they find this type of system to challenging but hey it will save you money as long as you be patient and test wires correctly and listen to the advice you will get from here during the install
i have way too much time on my hands.....
egejo 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: June 19, 2012
Location: Ecuador
Posted: June 21, 2012 at 1:36 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks a lot for your reply.
I have uploaded again the Spreadsheet in editable format. Please could you be kind enough to take a look at it as I can bet I'm wrong in something there hehehe...
HERE!
As for the modules yes I will take your advice and just install one or two at most will have to decide but these after I install the base alarm and test it. Also I will try to get those diodes you recommend thanks :)
gtmiller1001 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2012
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 21, 2012 at 2:54 PM / IP Logged  
Well looks like I joined at the right time, putting a 5701 on my 2010 Crew Cab F150 this Saturday, TONS of helpful info on here.
This will be my first alarm/RS install.
I have the alarm system, the DBALL bypass and plenty of diodes.
Can anyone tell me if there are any other items, such as relays, I will need for this specific vehicle? I have all the necessary tools/disposables.
THANKS!
gtmiller1001 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2012
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 22, 2012 at 10:59 PM / IP Logged  
I have been researching and plan on installing tomorrow.
I am using the 5701 with the DBALL, using D2D.
This seems a little too simple when using D2D, the instructions for the DBALL only ask for connecting 5 wires from the DBALL to the truck: HSCAN Hi and lo, TX, RX and ignition input.
It then says there are very few connections between the alarm and the truck due to using the D2D:
H3: Ignition 1 output
    Starter Output Car side
    Starter Input Key side
    12V constant
H1: 12V constant
    Chassis ground
    Parking light output
    
Other than that, just the D2D cable, NSS, siren output, hood pin and antenna.
That's 5 connections for the DBALL to truck and 7 from the alarm to the truck, 12 connections only to the truck.
So I won't even use H2 or Relay out harness.
This is my first go at this, is it really that simple when using the DBALL and D2D??
Please advise, wanna get started in the morning! Thanks!!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 23, 2012 at 6:52 AM / IP Logged  

The ignition wires at the ignition switch are all small gauge ( 18 ga ).

You should find a better source for the Viper's power wires.  You could go
to the battery, the SJB ( Red wire @ Black Plug G ) or the gray connector
in the DKP ( thick Red wire ).  Viper power wires are H1/2, H3/2 ( not
necessary as there is no IGN2 required for this truck ), H3/6 and H3/9.

Your Viper H3 should look like this :

      2010 F-150
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT     WHITE/ Orange        
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT      +12V constant - N.U.
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT     PURPLE / Green
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)       Blue/White - cut
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)           Blue/White - cut
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)     +12V constant
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT             not used
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT               not used
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT      +12V constant
H3/10 NC No Connection

Please do yourself a big favor and be very careful with the (+) Parking

Light connection.  This is the only place where you can get in trouble
with this vehicle.  The easiest place to get the correct wire is at the
SJB.  It is a PURPLE / White wire at Pin 6 of the Gray 13 pin Plug E.  You
will have to lengthen the Vipers Parking Light wire but it is worth it.
Make sure the Viper Parking Light polarity Jumper/Fuse is set to (+).
The SJB is also a easy place to get the door locks wires.

The SJB is in the Passenger Kick Panel.

Soldering is fun!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 23, 2012 at 7:33 AM / IP Logged  

Additional thoughts...

Never used a DBALL ( or any D2D connection ) but make sure the DBALL

is flashed with the correct firmware, 401.FORD v1.01.  Think all the
2010 F-150's were standard 40 bit PATS.  The DBALL does not handle the
door locks and those connections are not shown in the diagram either. 
The Factory FOBs should still work while under remote start but the
Viper can do the locks too, if connected.  They are standard Type B (-),
requiring a straight connection to the correct wires in the truck.

Also start looking for your 5.5mm deep socket for a steering column

cover bolt....  Gotta love Ford    viper 5901. 2010 f150 xlt -- posted image.

Soldering is fun!
racerjames76 
Silver - Posts: 581
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2008
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: June 23, 2012 at 8:53 AM / IP Logged  
A regular size craftsman 1/4" drive 5.5mm with a long extension will get the column apart as well. After you do a few of these trucks you get confident enough to find these wires right below the column cover (without removing it), but for a first timer, definitely remove the cover and visually trace the wiring to its source. viper 5901. 2010 f150 xlt -- posted image.
To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*
gtmiller1001 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2012
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 23, 2012 at 9:56 AM / IP Logged  
kreg357 wrote:

Additional thoughts...

Never used a DBALL ( or any D2D connection ) but make sure the DBALL

is flashed with the correct firmware, 401.FORD v1.01.  Think all the
2010 F-150's were standard 40 bit PATS.  The DBALL does not handle the
door locks and those connections are not shown in the diagram either. 
The Factory FOBs should still work while under remote start but the
Viper can do the locks too, if connected.  They are standard Type B (-),
requiring a straight connection to the correct wires in the truck.

Also start looking for your 5.5mm deep socket for a steering column

cover bolt....  Gotta love Ford    viper 5901. 2010 f150 xlt -- posted image.

God this is a great forum for info, thank you for your help!!
So you're saying that if I use the DBALL in D2D I would still have to connect the door lock wires off of the alarm to the truck in order for the Viper FOB's tofully function?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 23, 2012 at 4:39 PM / IP Logged  
Yes, that is correct.  While I am not a DEI expert on the DBALL, going
by the install guide, it does not handle the locks or Factory alarm thru
its' data connection to the truck ( HSCAN ).  Those connections would
still have to be hard-wired between the Viper and the truck.  The DBALL
is slightly overkill ( for the price ) on this application and most
installers just go with a standard PATS bypass module and hard-wire the
rest.
Soldering is fun!
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