crime guard 750i6

Hey, I just got the Crime Guard 750i6 and it came with the starter kill relay prewired. The connection are some what opposite but I would think it does the same job. 87a---starter solenoid 86----Orange GWA. 30----Ignition switch side of starter cut. 85----red wire connect from pin 30. Diode between 85 and 86 with band toward 85. Is this the correct way? Sorry to bring back the old thread but I see no point in starting new when it's always on top as a sticky. Thanks.

Wrong in a way that won't affect any thing:- ISO convention in other words followed by all the car manufacturers lists 85 as (-) and 86 as pos (+) coil. Technically wrong way round but it will still work. Some relays have built in diodes and other circuitry imagine the havoc wrong way wiring would cause. Badly wrong in a way that might:- 85 (Properly 86) should not go to 30 it should go to ignition 1 other wise the vehicle might never start.

Sorry, you lost me there, but will that relay works without leaving my battery flat in a day or two? This same relay comes with all of the Omega products, I would imagine they would not include it if it didn't work right? Thanks.

Go back about a million posts and you asked what are the recommended brands... Did ANYONE mention Omega? Do you think you could possibly stick to one thread.

He means that by convention, +12V goes to 86 and GND to 85 with the spike-protection diode between 86 & 85 with band towards 86. It's just another manufacturer that breaks convention - either because they are stupid or because they want maximum cost to the buyer (if anyone wires the relay in accordance with convention).

"Maximum cost to the buyer", what does that means, to reduce cost to buyer or to cause our batteries go flat so it cost more to buy a new battery? Lol. Sorry Howard, I know your favorites are DEI products, but the lack of a job for over a year tells me I need an alarm at minimal cost. A Viper would drown me for $150 while this Crime Guard, I got a deal for $55 otherwise it would be also $130 full retail without installation. But overall, would you say that I could use that included relay without problem to the battery? From my tiny little understand of relays, I don't see how that would not work even though it's not conventional. What is conventional any way? Most people agreed or what ever works? I am poor right now so what ever works is good. :) Thanks for the help guys.

The ONLY correct way:- 42D_starter_cut_dei.bmp As I said before, you can always pull the connectors from 85 and 86 and turn them around, small flat screwdriver required, or leave as is, 85 is then the pos but make sure that goes to your ignition yellow/black. Now instead of jumping in, read earlier posts on this thread. Aug. 16th. 2011. That relay is only engaged if someone gets past the alarm and tries to hotwire your car. I don't especially favour current DEI product at all, you'd know that if you did a thorough research, it's just unreliable DEI is more reliable and probably better made than Crimestopper

By the way if the pin convention AND wiring are wrong on that relay, what Oldspark and I are getting at is what else is wrong that will cost you time, inconvenience and $$$ to rectify.

bad_dude wrote: "Maximum cost to the buyer", what does that mean...

I meant that by a manufacturer or anyone doing things against convention like specifying "inverted" wiring for "relays with diodes", it is quite likely to blow the unit when someone wires it in accordance with normal industry conventions. In some cases that is quite deliberate, but I know some cases where they are merely guilty of stupidity or ignorance. < I deleted the rest - I confused this with the "relay resistance" thread >

howie ll wrote: The ONLY correct way:- 42D_starter_cut_dei.bmp As I said before, you can always pull the connectors from 85 and 86 and turn them around, small flat screwdriver required, or leave as is, 85 is then the pos but make sure that goes to your ignition yellow/black. Now instead of jumping in, read earlier posts on this thread. Aug. 16th. 2011. That relay is only engaged if someone gets past the alarm and tries to hotwire your car. I don't especially favour current DEI product at all, you'd know that if you did a thorough research, it's just unreliable DEI is more reliable and probably better made than Crimestopper

Hey Howard, Thanks for the help. I love your little diagrams. I always save them and share them else where. I hope you don't mind. As for the pos, I got it, ignition 12V, NOT CONSTANT 12V. I believe this was the whole point of your tip to begin with to avoid a flat battery for the relay being on all the time with constant 12V connected. Like any electronics, there's a small portion that will be DOA, more are reliable than others. I have a Crime Guard, not Crimestopper. My friend has a Crimestopper and the remote feels cheap. Thanks every one for the great help. Especially Howard, he's almost always the first to answer my million of questions.