2002-2007 Lexus SC430 Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial

Remote start with Keyless entry install on a 2004 Lexus SC430.  The 2002 - 2007 models are the same.

Notes:

Low production vehicle - only 65,000 for the U.S during the 2002 - 2010 run.Like most Toyota's and Lexus vehicles, the Factory FOB's do not work while the engine is running.As a premium vehicle, it does have "comfort closure", priority unlock, factory alarm and a transponder based ignition immobilizer system.

There are not a lot of choices for bypass modules.  A universal " key-in-the -box" will work if the owner doesn't mind giving

up a key.  ( The original owner got 4 keys with the vehicle, two masters w/keyless, one valet and one flat wallet key w/separate transponder chip.)   Programming a new transponder key does not require a scan tool.  The DEI XK05 w/PKT2 firmware will work but requires accessing the ECM in the engine compartment.  The idatalink ADS TBSL KO was used for this vehicle and all the necessary connections are at the ignition switch.  For this install, no wires were run into the engine compartment and only two were run into the drivers door.

The "value add" for the customer ( and installer ) is the ability not only to remote start the engine ( for warm up / cool down )

but to remotely control the convertible roof-top.   These extra features will require a high end fully featured remote startunit that has multiple AUX outputs that can be set to an exact time output ( or multiple AUX outputs & 528T modules ).

This install used a Viper 4704V ( think 5501 ) unit with the iDatalink bypass module.  The Viper has programming for Comfort Closure

and the four AUX outputs can be set for any time between 1 and 90 seconds with the BitWriter.  The Bitwriter will also allowsetting the AUX Icons on the 2 Way Remote to Roof, Window, etc.

Disassembly:

Gently lift the drivers door sill plate and remove.  Remove the door pillar cover trim piece by the drivers kick panel.  Remove the lower driver dash panel by removing three 10mm bolts and pulling straight away ( 4 clips along top edge ).  No need toremove the lower steering column cover as the ignition switch and its' connectors are located to the right of the columnand exposed with the lower dash panel removal.  The drivers kick panel is part of the carpet - pull, slide & roll it back, down and away from the kick panel and fuse box.Remove the drivers door panel.  There are 8 screws and 3 "pop" fasteners.  ( Big hint on those fasteners, to release - depressthe center button and then pull fastener out. )  Gently lift and pull door panel off.  Be careful not to break the door lock control cables.

This is a picture of the door lock and unlock wires at the drivers door module above the 6X9 speaker.   Shown are the key cylinder

wires and will lock/unlock, arm/disarm the Factory Alarm and allow comfort closure with extended length pulses.

This is  picture of the ignition cylinder with the ignition, transponder and keysense connectors marked.

Here is a close up the main ignition connector with the wires marked.

This a close up the the Keysense wire.

If using an iDatalink bypass module, here is a photo of the transponder connector.

This is the Trunk Release wire found at the release switch.

Here is a shot of the Brake wire at the Brake Pedal connector.

This is a photo of the Tach wire at the OBD2 connector.  ( Also shown is the Dome Light wire at the lower dash courtesy light.)

There are two places to get the Convertible top Open and Close wires, at the switch or in the Drivers Kick Panel.

Below is a picture of the wires in the DPK.  DEI's info on these wires is reversed - Open is GREEN/ YELLOW and Closeis Yellow/Black.  ( Always pays to test and verify everything. )  Setting the AUX output to 31 seconds for Open and 21 seconds for Close worked well for this car.  These functions only work while the engine is running.

Not shown:  There is a Red wire at the very back of the Drivers Fuse Box that is a (-) Hood Pin.  It is very difficult

to get to, let alone get a picture of.  It is Connector A, an 18 Pin connector.  The Red hood pin wire is at Pin 16.Remove the 10mm upper bolt and lower nut securing the fuse box to the DPK wall for better access.

The Parking Lights and Horn inside the car are data.  You could use the Hazards ( Yellow (-) wire in center plug of A/C

display panel ) but flashing lights are annoying.  The DRL's come on while the engine is running.

To disarm the car without an unlock, pulse Keysense.  To roll down the windows, program another AUX output

for 10 seconds and connect to the Unlock wire.  It will do both, unlock the doors and roll down the windows.

Soldering is fun!

Nice. Was a certain person standing over you saying "mind my car"? So I was right in my theory about the lock and unlock wires in the driver's door doing window up down then.

Official rule : "No spectators allowed in the shop."  Especially when working on a car with leather.

Yes, this car had total closure, which made window roll-up and down a breeze.  Could have even done window vent via an AUX set to 2 or 3 seconds output.  Howards' info is always "spot on". 

Soldering is fun!

Ref the roof closing only with engine run. Bet the BCM or roof control module gets a + pulse from the starter, if you could emulate that you could do roof control without engine run, worth looking at the circuit diagrams (Mitchells?) to find out.