alpine 7802 unable to set clock

The manual seems the same as what I have. There is no mention of "clock", and "time" exists in other non-clock contexts. And certainly no display or display function comes up on the unit. I'm not sure on the "E", though I presumed it meant set for the Aussie (and Euro) FM band and station spacing (9kHz?) etc.

Yes, Sorry... I saw no mention of the Clock. Posted the manual for other "curious" by-standers...M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Sorry for this re-awakening, but not wanting to start a new Post... (me? Never!) - especially if it's obvious, well-known, trivial, or posted elsewhere. In summary:

• I've always wired my audio straight to the battery
• This can no longer be done on modern HUs (maybe).

Why? Some units may have a high standby current when BOTH constant and switched +12V are connected. For example, for the Alpine CDE-121E, connect either constant +12V (yellow) or switched +12V (red) to +12V and their loading is negligible. BUT, connect both to +12V and their combined loading jumps to ~80mA (or ~120mA with USB memory inserted). That sort of drain is too much for many users. (Me included, but I only found out about that increased drain AFTER buying a new battery!) Noting that I'm in the habit of turning off my Alpine/HU manually, and that I want it available anytime - even when I've lost my keys! My solution was to run the switched +12V thru a relay (#30, #87). Coil #85 to GND... Switched +12V thru a diode to coil #86, and... HU Remote Turn On (eg, blue-white on Alpine) thru a diode to coil #86. (The RTO latches the relay on.) The above means that once switched +12V is on (whether ACC or IGN) the HU can be turned on. Once the HU is turned on, it stays on until manually turned off, or the supply voltage drops sufficiently (eg, to below 11V) - irrespective of ACC or IGN status. Later I'll add a switch to bypass the need for keys (for ACC or IGN) - eg, short #30 to #86 (via diode?). I might even add a switch to break the Remote Turn On to #86 in case I want the ignition key to also turn the HU off. And yes, I should have a low-voltage cutoff in case I forget to turn the HU off, but that's only happened a few times with my previous Alpine which had a blown faceplate and hence no display (just the panel back-lights that were almost invisible in situ during daylight).    Oh well, what was intended as a simple FYI or warning now includes my full-blown blurb. How strange! Meanwhile I can't help but notice how technology has defeated me again! Long ago I scrapped the "IGN or battery" selector for my HU power instead favoring direct to battery. And now I'm back to at least using a relay, plus a switch if I want to turn it on anytime. Just you wait Tech - I'll get rid of the switch. One day... Sorry again for the re-awakening of this thread. Sorry too onurmarc for the hijack, but I thought with this thread being concluded etc... And anyone, please paraphrase or use the above in another the12volt thread if suitable.

Hey there Mr. Spark... Are you familiar with this company/product... http://www.lithionicsbattery.com **Since "we" hi-jacked this thread, seems appropiate to ask here... ; )M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Hey hang on Tommy - at least I stuck to Alpine. Your hijack is totally unrelated & should be a new thread! Oh - I get it - in case I want another battery to power mine, or onurmarc a battery to power his clock. Very clever Tommy . Alas I know little about lithium batteries other than their explosive introduction, and that the LiPo's and rare earth magnets have revolutionised model aeroplanes etc - no more chopping off fingers trying to start miniature diesel engines. (And now that have fan-driven jets as well.) From what I understand, LiPos are providing "hundreds of Amps" for model plane motors, or that's what one enthusiast was telling me. That may have been somewhat exaggerated, but I take it that they can provide high current and - I presume - with little damage. I know normal rechargeable lithiums can last ages - far more cycles than the nickel-based rechargeables. Whether those 2 characteristics combine is a different issue. Maybe modellers don't mind replacing batteries after a dozen flights? (Which would be on par with some UPS batteries - only rated for a handful of full-discharge cycles.) That's where IMO some data mining is required (read: googling - but only finding the good info LOL). I'd look in to how long those batteries have been around and lasted. Two main observations: - Have they invented a new measurement - "Lithium Amp-Hours"? - They seem keen to show the flat lithium discharge voltage curve against the lead-acid, but they are using a lithium with much larger Amp-Hour rating. Why? (Did I miss their definition of Lithium-AH?) Of course the good thing about the voltage discharge slope of the lead-acid is that it's an easy method to estimate remaining %age of capacity. How do you do the same for Lithium? And as to needing a flat discharge voltage - who cares? Few people run points ignition these days, and anyone with CDI certainly doesn't care, nor would most modern electronic ignitions.    So what if the engine cranks faster? And AFAIK, a Li battery cannot directly replace a car battery - the charger (alternator) must suit.

...Well, i was just interested in your response, hence the re-hi-jack. Yes, Battery for the clock... That works. They have automotive replacements, as-well-as a remote to "disconnect" the battery... Oy Vey... But your engine cranks faster!M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!