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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 06, 2012 at 12:44 PM / IP Logged  
Got there first Craig, you're at lunch and I'm finished for the day!:-
power_antenna.bmp
Definitely fuses on power and ground maybe diodes on switch feed?
Switch would be readily available, break before make, Farnel, Mouser etc.
pam1 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: August 30, 2012
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: September 07, 2012 at 1:36 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks I will build a mock up before install. I take it the black line in the down position represents the white wire?  What is the back of the switch going to look like?  The up position  will have a small jumper from 85 to 30.  In the down position there is a jumper from 86 to 30     Sorry to be a be so numb with wires. It will take a couple of days to get to the big city to pick up the bits and pieces. I will let you know how I make out

Pam
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 07, 2012 at 2:40 PM / IP Logged  
The black line in the picture goes to ground, see the symbol at the top? Yes it joins 85 and 30
Your white goes from 30 on the up relay to the antenna.
On the up relay 86 and 87 are joined then back to the switch.
The switch will have 3 terminals on the back, 12v (+) input, (-) ground
and green centre tap out to the relays.
Fuse both power and ground.
pam1 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: August 30, 2012
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: September 11, 2012 at 7:58 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the advice and help. I followed the diagram and the antenatal works like a charm. Just don't put the switch in the center off position until the antenna has completed its cycle or you just have to replace that fuse again and again.
Next will be possibly putting relays in the power windows to speed them up, they are dreadfully slow and some times don;t work at all using the factory wiring. They work fine if you bypass the factory stuff. I suppose since the car is a 74 the factory stuff might be getting weak\
thanks again
Pam
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 12, 2012 at 12:56 AM / IP Logged  
Try a non-silicone version of WD-40 sprayed into the window channels, relays aren't the answer.
Maybe the switch should have been post-natal. Did you have something else on your mind when you did your last post?
pam1 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: August 30, 2012
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: September 12, 2012 at 9:22 AM / IP Logged  
The window chanels have all been loobed with white lithium grease the kind used on snowmobile clutches. I was thinking relays so that the large power draw was not run through the switch. As it stands now the power comes to the switch and is then run to the window motor, through the switch. Nothing else on my mind when posting
Pam
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 12, 2012 at 12:23 PM / IP Logged  
OK then, you had the right idea for the first method, I wasn't being my normal, Non-PC chauvinistic self, you wrote antenatal instead of antenna!!!!
Before relays, new switches and definitely thicker cables with your POS (*) and NEG (-) straight to the battery.
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