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info on a 12volt pump


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blandis 
Member - Posts: 2
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Joined: September 09, 2012
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 09, 2012 at 9:12 AM / IP Logged  
I have a 97 Ford Econoline Super Duty with a 7.3 diesel. I need some info on what is the best method to hook this 12Volt Pump up so that I can run the pump during a job, charge the pump while driving, and not interfere with the normal electrical system negatively. I'm thinking maybe add a third battery dedicated to the pump only - but I'm not sure how to wire it into the electrical system so it does everything listed above. All help is greatly appreciated.
Landis Roof Cleaning
Birdsboro, Pa 19508
oldspark 
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Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: September 10, 2012 at 4:18 AM / IP Logged  
A 3rd battery? Is it a 24V system?
And what do you mean by "charge the pump while driving"?
If you have a 24V system, I suggest you get a 24V pump.
Otherwise you need a dc-dc converter to drop 24V to 12V, and another 1 or 2 batteries if you want independence from your 24CV crankers.
blandis 
Member - Posts: 2
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Joined: September 09, 2012
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: September 10, 2012 at 5:46 AM / IP Logged  

With a diesel vehichle, there are already two batteries setup. I believe one is for the start up of the diesel engine and one is for running all of the other accessories.

As for charging the pump, I meant to say, if I install a third battery -dedicated to the pump only, the battery is what I want to charge while the vehicle is running. I just need to know how to hook up the third battery to the vehichle's electrical system so it doesn't pull from the main vehicle batteries  but still re-charges itself while the vehicle is running.

Landis Roof Cleaning
Birdsboro, Pa 19508
oldspark 
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Location: Australia
Posted: September 10, 2012 at 6:38 AM / IP Logged  
Assuming it is a 12 volt system (ie, NOT a 24V alternator), and if you have a charge light, then I suggest a relay controlled by the charge light circuit - ie, D+ or L from the alternator (or its regulator). (eg, Google "UIBI oldspark".)
That assumes the D+ or L circuit can supply the current for the relay coil. If not, it may damage/destroy the regulator.
Hence the circuit is front battery(s)+12V via fuse then relay to the 3rd battery's fuse & 3rd battery.
Cable, fuse & relay sizing depends on the pump's current and the maximum battery recharge current.
Instead of fuses I suggest self resetting circuit-breakers, else (or and?) a battery protector for the 3rd battery (ie, a low-voltage cutout).
Self resetting CBs are small and cheap up to 50A, hence a 60A relay with 50A rated cabling and 50A CBs. Or 30A relay with 30A cable and 30A (or smaller) CBs etc.
shackmaster 
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Joined: March 07, 2013
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: March 09, 2013 at 7:20 AM / IP Logged  

You can also use a duel battery isolator as those in RV's.  It allows the additional battery to charge off of the alternator but separates it from the engine battery system when vehicle is not running.  This allows a load on the separate battery without the danger of draining the vehicle battery system.


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