door locks, 2004 maxima

That's good to know. I had a feeling that was the case, but I wanted to make sure (mostly for my own knowledge base.. lol)Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

ok so i got everything working except the unlock. for some reason its not working and its strait inside the door hooked up to the red wre. any suggestions guys

yes, you need to pulse the red wire twice to unlock. first pulse doesn't unlock. Look at your install manual under the programmable options and program for "double pulse" unlock. This way when you press unlock on your remote control, the remote starter brain will send 2 pulses automatically to the red wire and unlock the doors.

ok will try.... also idont know where to post this so ill post it here since it has to do with the car the side view mirror controls are on the lower dash panel of this car now while removing it all the wires came undone fom the plug does anyone know what wire go in what slots so i can put it back on?

another qustion towards the alarm it says i hae to pulse a wire in order to program the unit for the double pulse unlock how do i pulse the wire?

You are installing a viper VSS3000 right? You enter programming mode and change the programmable options using the valet button. You need to change the option in Menu 1, Option 5 to "On" As for the power mirror wires, I don't know what wire goes where. You might need to find a Nissan Maxima forum and ask there. Unless someone chimes in here with the answer.

ok i figured out how to program it now i did that the module clicks 2 times so im assuming its double pulsing. now i have my unloc wire strait into the door onto the red wire which reads 5 volts on stanby and with the key turned in the door the voltage lowers so i guess thats the right unlock wire so i hooked up the unlock wire to it but it still doesnt work i went through ll the wires on the door switch harness and nothing unlocks the door. any ideas

Have you verified the unlock output to make sure its giving you a double pulse? Also, the best way to test the factory wire (and the output of the unit) is to connect the positive lead of your meter to a known 12v source and the negative lead to the wire you are testing. When activated it should show 12v on the DMM. You can also use audible continuity to test them.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

This whole thread is becoming a damned if you do and damned if you don't situation. Frankly, given the knowledge that the lock/unlock trigger wires were at the driver's door switch most of the "advisers here, Kenny, Kregg, Flobee etc. would have found and verified the correct wire within 5 minutes of removing the door panel. Heck I've done this on BMW 5 Series and X5 without even removing more than the switch and releasing the lower half. Problem: While advising rookies to use a DMM because frankly it's safer, most rookies don't know how to use it, get confused by the results etc. It's much faster to use a bulb tester on virtually anything before 05 with positive (sorry) results. Who gives a toss what voltage? If you ground two wires via tester and it gives you lock/unlock job done. I never note the lock/unlock wire colours on say a Toyota, I just probe and very soon, job done. Heck, shut all other doors, flick over the catch at the back of the drivers door and away you go. As for pulling the wires off of the mirror switch, how the hell was that done considering these wires are in a plug. You want to do a radio upgrade in a 30 year old Jensen Interceptor when you have to pull the front plate from the centre console complete with HVAC controls and ciggie lighter, all the wires are separate with no plugs.

The above post does not of course include Ford Probe, Chryslers, some current VW, Benz one wire vacuum with polarity c/over and Nissan etc one wire.