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comfort closure and viper


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KPierson 
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Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: October 11, 2012 at 7:08 PM / IP Logged  
Hondas are a bit different then other comfort closing vehicles because an extended pulse on the "LOCK" wire will not raise the windows. In fact, an extended pulse on disarm won't raise the windows, either.
To raise the windows with the key you need to turn the key in the drivers door to the "LOCK" position, release it, then turn and HOLD the key in the "LOCK" position. Without the first pulse the extended (-) trigger on the disarm wire won't do anything (you can simulate this with your key in the door - hold it to the "LOCK" position without pulsing it first, the windows won't do anything).
The first pulse can be extremely quick, but it needs to be there. What many people have successfully done is wire the "LOCK" wire to the "DISARM" wire (through diodes) and then wire an AUX to the "DISARM" wire. When you want the windows to raise you lock the door then hold the AUX until the windows are all the way up. Alternatively you can enable the comfort closure and then then hit AUX first (for the quick pulse) followed by an arm command which should extend the triggers on the disarm wire and raise the windows.
Kevin Pierson
manswers 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2012
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: October 11, 2012 at 8:20 PM / IP Logged  
KPierson wrote:
Hondas are a bit different then other comfort closing vehicles because an extended pulse on the "LOCK" wire will not raise the windows. In fact, an extended pulse on disarm won't raise the windows, either.
To raise the windows with the key you need to turn the key in the drivers door to the "LOCK" position, release it, then turn and HOLD the key in the "LOCK" position. Without the first pulse the extended (-) trigger on the disarm wire won't do anything (you can simulate this with your key in the door - hold it to the "LOCK" position without pulsing it first, the windows won't do anything).
The first pulse can be extremely quick, but it needs to be there. What many people have successfully done is wire the "LOCK" wire to the "DISARM" wire (through diodes) and then wire an AUX to the "DISARM" wire. When you want the windows to raise you lock the door then hold the AUX until the windows are all the way up. Alternatively you can enable the comfort closure and then then hit AUX first (for the quick pulse) followed by an arm command which should extend the triggers on the disarm wire and raise the windows.
Thanks for your reponse Kevin, so you agree flobee4's meathod posted in the first page of this thread is the correct meathod, as i am keeping this as the definative guide on correcting all the mistakes with my Acura MDX for comfort Closure.. right?
flobee4 
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Joined: January 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: October 12, 2012 at 12:05 AM / IP Logged  
yes, the arm/disarm wires are actually the wires attached to the driver's side key cylinder. The programming of the 5704 to "comfort Closure 1" will upon locking the doors - pulse the key cylinder arm wire once and then it will activate again for 20sec. to roll up the windows. so as you can see the 5704 when set properly will duplicate a person turning the key once and then turning the key a second time and holding the key turned.
shortcircuit161 
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Joined: August 29, 2010
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Posted: October 12, 2012 at 8:04 AM / IP Logged  
If you have to press once for locks, then press again for comfort closure, option 1 would not be correct. It's stated in the manual for the 5704.
Comfort Closure 1: the door lock pulse (or 2nd pulse for double pulses) will remain on for 20 seconds.
Comfort Closure 2: 800mS following the end of the door lock pulse (or 2nd pulse for double pulses); the door lock output will turn on again for 20 seconds.
flobee4 
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Posted: October 12, 2012 at 9:02 AM / IP Logged  
ha, I didn't find the 5704 manual in the download section of this site, only a quick reference guide. So, I was using a 533P manual. On the 533P its the opposite, I just checked it again. This surprises me... Usually what menu options do are very similar across the line. Good catch shortcircuit161, thanks for looking into that!
shortcircuit161 
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Posted: October 12, 2012 at 9:12 AM / IP Logged  
Yeah, go figure. DEI would reverse things to confuse us! hehe
manswers 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2012
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: October 12, 2012 at 5:10 PM / IP Logged  
My remote starter wanted me to update you guys on what he was trying to do the other day. He wanted me to post this for you to read and see whats wrong.
"Thanks for the info. The negative arm/lock wire is double dioded, going to a relay in the door for lock and directly to the arm wire. Now, when the lock wire is connected, the doors lock and the factory alarm arms but, the windows do not go up. Actually, when both wires are connected the windows do not go up with the key turned in the door key cylinder. I can lock the doors with factory remote and then press arm on the alarm and the windows will comfort close. When the lock wire is disconnected, the doors do not lock but, the windows do go up with comfort closure. By the way, I did not hook up the unlock wire in the drivers door as I spent so much time working several combinations to just get the lock/arm/comfort closure to work."
Please pay attention to the part where he says that he did not hook up the unlock wire in the drivers door... is that the missing link??Thanks for the info. The negative arm/lock wire is double dioded, going to a relay in the door for lock and directly to the arm wire. Now, when the lock wire is connected, the doors lock and the factory alarm arms but, the windows do not go up. Actually, when both wires are connected the windows do not go up with the key turned in the door key cylinder. I can lock the doors with factory remote and then press arm on the alarm and the windows will comfort close. When the lock wire is disconnected, the doors do not lock but, the windows do go up with comfort closure. By the way, I did not hook up the unlock wire in the drivers door as I spent so much time working several combinations to just get the lock/arm/comfort closure to work.
flobee4 
Silver - Posts: 585
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Joined: January 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: October 12, 2012 at 8:19 PM / IP Logged  
it is supposed to be just the lock wire from the 5704 not the arm wire too. Also, I would have him check the diodes because he states that with both wires connected that the windows will no longer roll up using the key in the door lock cylinder.
If all that checks out. I would try 2 ore options. First what Enice said in an earlier post. Use 2 diodes(verified good diodes) and split the lock wire coming from the 5704 connect one wire directly to the CA module and the other to the arm wire in the drivers door. No relay needed if he tries this way.
The other way I was thinking is hook the lock wire directly to the arm wire in the drivers door and the arm wire from the 5704 to the relay that is outputting the positive to the door lock wire in the drivers door.
enice 
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Location: New York, United States
Posted: October 12, 2012 at 9:09 PM / IP Logged  
Honestly.. this should be very straight forward. It should work without a problem. Like stated earlier... just use the blue and green lock and unlock wires. No need for the arm/disarm wires.
Also, comfort closure on the viper will pulse the blue wire and then pulse again and holds. For the windows to vent you press unlock and then hold on the aux button and it will roll down while you hold the button. Simple stuff bro lol..
juan maza 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2011
Location: United States
Posted: October 14, 2012 at 1:43 AM / IP Logged  
Very detailed info!
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