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is there a cheaper version of 530t?


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lurch228 
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Posted: November 12, 2012 at 8:43 PM / IP Logged  
Close when arming yes, as for vent I'm not sure never used it myself. I always stick with the DEI for the vent.
lilflippy 
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Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 12, 2012 at 8:46 PM / IP Logged  
lurch228 wrote:
Close when arming yes, as for vent I'm not sure never used it myself. I always stick with the DEI for the vent.
heres a link to the cs-5502
http://www./itm/181021128469?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Is this the right one?
And can I roll down the windows with the remote?
lilflippy 
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Posted: November 12, 2012 at 8:52 PM / IP Logged  
http://www./itm/181021128469?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
lurch228 
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Posted: November 13, 2012 at 1:05 AM / IP Logged  
Yes it will roll up or down, but no vent and need one for each window, from what I can tell.
nvrau 
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Location: Australia
Posted: April 21, 2014 at 4:49 PM / IP Logged  
Question about CS-5502: Is it designed to go between switch & window motor or simply tie into motor wires?
The diagram doesn't distinguish between the two.
howie ll 
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Posted: April 22, 2014 at 5:53 AM / IP Logged  
All closers need to go to the motor wires because many switches on modern vehicles go to a processor before going to the motor.
BTW, IMO experience, never had any problems with the 530t, you get what you pay for.
nvrau 
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Posted: April 22, 2014 at 5:43 PM / IP Logged  
On this car, 2002 Mercedes Benz A160, which isn't available in the States, there is only ACC, window up & down to motor, and then illumination.
After disconnecting battery and removing the door panel, I used a metre to confirm motor wires are directly connected without a module between it and switch.
5502 diagram, it shows it's only connected to motor and then two positive & two negative up/down triggers. I have the module connected on a breadboard simulating 5502 motor wires connected to switch wires and using switches up/down triggering the module via relay interlock and several diodes. It works but after closer look at diagram, I just want to confirm the intent of it's design.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: April 22, 2014 at 6:01 PM / IP Logged  
Don't you have comfort control on that vehicle, turn the key to lock and hold, closes the windows?
If so extending the lock time pulse or a timer on the wire in the driver's door that goes to neg and stays there when you hold the key in that position should close the windows with no need for any form of closer.
nvrau 
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Posted: April 22, 2014 at 10:31 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the continued input!
No, this is MB little efficient, no frills model. I was just hoping for someone who had experience with the 5502.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 23, 2014 at 1:03 AM / IP Logged  
First point.
Do you have two power windows or 4?
I had a quick glance at the wiring diagram for the 4 window version, it shows a module attached to each front motor. You have to get between!
Simplest way is to test the "motor" wire from the switch, leave window halfway up, cut one wire and apply 12V+ to the window side.
Secondly do you know the history and reputation of this car?
PM me if you don't.
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