viper 5902 defroster connection

howie ll wrote: 91stt's diagram is 100% correct, also X 2 with soundnsecurity, sorry Lurch you are quite WRONG in what you suggest, but then we had this out last week didn't we. What part of motor wire/hot window feed is GROUNDED at rest don't you realise.

We are all here to help as well as learn and anyone who thinks they are only here to help are on a never ending fools errand. I might not be up to speed with all the newest and greatest units and vehicles. But how many people nowadays can even operate a computer without a mouse or GUI to interface for them. The accepted way to use a computer is with a mouse, does that mean it's the only way it can be done. No it's not, so don't be so quick to dismiss what you either don't know or have never tried.

You're missing the point. 99% of output wires be the lock actuators, window motors or rear defogger hot wires are ground at rest; thus applying a feed will blow your fuse. That's the point I was making + the safety factor of a changeover relay. I know certain Mercedes, Euro VW etc. were 12v+ (+) at rest and some door locks, inc. London taxis were open circuit but that's why we test as you said. By definition a permanent magnet motor will have both wires either 12v+ or ground (-) at rest.

a computer is not a car, cars need to be interfaced in certain ways to prevent damage. some cars are more forgiving than others but just because something works on one car doesnt mean it translates to another car as you should know well. yes we are all here to teach and learn but if you are going to teach then you need to teach the best way not the good enough way. sure, you know that you should test the wires but the people who ask questions probably wont, so based on your advise, someone might just start jumping wires together. is that your fault? not really, but can it be avoided by giving better explanations? yup

Quite right.

That may be true in a generic application but we are talking about a Specific vehicle (99 Tahoe), for a specific type of defroster using a single pulse to activate the defrost. Not door locks, window motors or any other low resistance circuit. As a defroster element is high resistance (High Resistance = Heat) so it's not a direct ground per se. That by design is likely to get to hot if latched to a remote start that can run for 24 minutes with a defrost that is timed to only run for 10. And you are bypassing the control switch negating the 10 minute limit all together. Will it take this sure, but for how long? You're also not erroring on the side of caution that some one will unknowingly turn the winter mode on and remote start a car on a very hot day and overheat the window element causing it to fail. Being politicly correct or following popular opinion AKA the accepted way which means in most cases not all. So that's the other side of the coin on that matter.

This round to Lurch on points.

I can't tell you how appreciative I am for everyone taking the time to explain and attach diagrams to help me out. I have the tools, common sense and am mechanically inclined, just didn't understand or have ever used a relay, but have sure learned a lot the last few days. Does anyone have any input on how to fix the smartstart aux channels via the activation website. I live chatted with Viper Customer Service, but they were unable to help. Basically, she said I had to go back to my installer to have this corrected, I didn't dare say I did it myself with an online user/password. I guess the airId gets associated to the installer that logs in or enters his info during the activation process, I just left that blank as I went through the process, trying to go back into it with the same online info now says my airId isn't associated with that user, is it in limbo somewhere.

i used to have a DEI account but im not with that shop anymore or i would help you. you will need to find an installer with an account. best buy would probably be the most common place that sells viper so maybe try there or a local shop if you have one near by that sells viper. im pretty sure anyone with an account can change your settings because that wouldnt make any sense to only be able to modify your account through the same installer.

lurch228 wrote: . That by design is likely to get to hot if latched to a remote start that can run for 24 minutes with a defrost that is timed to only run for 10.

well, with that knowledge i would still keep my wiring the same, but i wouldnt latch the output. most remote starters will let you use a timer mode on the defroster channel and even if it doesnt you can still use a timer like the PAC TR-7 to work within the limits of the vehicle's design.

The timer leechs it power from the output when latched so sending a pulse to the 12v output engages the latch. So it runs off the factory control as normal. It's a matter of preference really as to how you want to hook it up. For this type of defrost either way will work.