2010 honda crv remote start

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flobee4

Silver - Posts: 585

Joined: January 02, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: December 19, 2012 at 10:47 PM / IP Logged

You don't use the yellow/black on a CRV. There are a few wires you won't use. The remote starter is universal so it has many wires to cover different installation situations on different vehicles.

On a side note, you know that the Honda remote built onto the key will not work to unlock the car door after the remote start is running, right?

There is a way to unlock the doors using the 901c remote, but I don't install audiovox anymore so I don't remember how. Something with the BLACK/ blue wire... also something about that BLACK/ blue wire unlock the door with remote start because its also the disarm wire. So if I remember correctly you need to hook the "pulse during start" wire to the lock wire in the CRV to relock the car.

ss70camaro

Member - Posts: 11

Joined: December 04, 2012

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: December 19, 2012 at 11:21 PM / IP Logged

I did not know that about the locks. Nothing is labled "pulse during start". there is a "pulse ground output before start" and a "pulse ground output after start" and " pulse ground output after shutdown". I'd like to be able to have the remote work to lock and unlock the doors. Do I have to hook a relay up when using the pulse output also

Mike M2

Platinum - Posts: 2,652

Joined: June 29, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: December 20, 2012 at 6:35 AM / IP Logged

If your bypass does not cover locks and arming you will need to do this. The 901C doesn't have an actual unlock or disarm wire so you need to also connect a lock wire to relock the doors after it remote starts. Locate the drivers door harness, it unplugs inside the cavity behind the fuse box. Connect the BLACK/ green(pulse after start) wire to the lock wire(blue). Connect the BLACK/ blue(pulse before start) wire to 2 wires, unlock(gray) and brown(disarm). Diode isolate these 2 wires(band towards remote start). Doing this will disarm the factory alarm before it starts plus allow you to hold down the 901C button when you use it to unlock the doors. A drawback of the 901C is that it will unlock during the crank process also, but should relock if you follow these instructions.

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

flobee4

Silver - Posts: 585

Joined: January 02, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: December 20, 2012 at 9:51 AM / IP Logged

Thanks Mike for explaining it better.

I haven't done a CRV since the beginning of this year, but if I remember there is a harness that loops under the right side of the fusebox that when opened up has your lock/unlock and disarm wires in it. They are very THIN wires. If it isn't actually going under the fusebox, then it is going by the bottom right side of it.

ss70camaro

Member - Posts: 11

Joined: December 04, 2012

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: December 20, 2012 at 11:52 AM / IP Logged

I have a PKALL bypass. will that take care of the locks or will I still have to hook up the wires with the diodes. If i have to use the diodes is there specific diode I should buy? I just want to make sure the factory remote will still lock and unlock the doors. Thanks for all the help

flobee4

Silver - Posts: 585

Joined: January 02, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: December 20, 2012 at 3:34 PM / IP Logged

The factory remote will still lock and unlock the doors as long as the car isn't running. When you remote start it you will either need to connect those wires as described above or use the key in the key cylinder on the door(old fashion way...LOL)to unlock it. The PK-ALL will not do locks. Its only 3 wires to connect to, even if you had a bypass that did locks you would still need to connect the bypass to 2 of those 3 wires. They are easy enough to get to anyway. You can pick up a package of diodes at Radio Shack. Its any diode thats black with a gray stripe on one side of it. basically a 1N400x where X can equal 1,2,3, or 4. Example 1N4004. The strips on the 2 diodes need to face the remote starter. So twist the 2 ends together with the strip forming a "y" with the diodes, take the end twisted together and connect it to the BLACK/ blue wire.

ss70camaro

Member - Posts: 11

Joined: December 04, 2012

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: January 12, 2013 at 11:13 PM / IP Logged

I'm finally getting a chance to install this remote starter. I have it almost wired I just have a question on a couple more wires since i wont have access to the vehicle wiring diagram until next week when I go back to work. On the lock unlock and the factory disarm wire it says they are located in the dirvers kick panel in the door harness. Are the wires in the brown plug(bottom plug on the door) and are they a very small gauge wire? Also where is the best place to hook into the parking lights? For the PKALL bypass where is the best place to hook up to the data wire and the ignition wire? Thanks for the help

flobee4

Silver - Posts: 585

Joined: January 02, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: January 13, 2013 at 6:45 AM / IP Logged

For Parking lights I usually grab Negative at the switch since I'm there anyway for the ignition wires and immobilizer bypass wires. Its a small gauge wire. It's blue, and a lighter shade of blue at that. But there is a red Positive parking light in the drivers kick, though I personally never looked for it...my info says in a blue 18 pin plug. Use whichever one you want, just remember to change your remote starters Positive/Negative jumper accordingly.

I get the door lock and alarm wires near the fusebox. They do come from the door so you can get them there too. Just look for where the wires are coming through from the door into the car and you should be good. Yes, the wires are very thin.

PK-All wire you get from the green immobilizer plug directly at the immobilizer in the steering column. Its right next to your ignition wires.

Here's a link to the Wiring Diagram for the CRV

ss70camaro

Member - Posts: 11

Joined: December 04, 2012

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: January 19, 2013 at 11:49 PM / IP Logged

I have the remote starter all wired up and programmed. The only problem is the remote starter only works when I have a key in the ignition. If i try the remote starter the car just cranks. When it is cranking the led on the pkall is on steady and the security light flashes while it tries to start. I hooked the pkall up to the 7 pin connector on pins 2 and 3 one was a small green wire and the other was a light blue wire. I programed the pkall the way they said to. Any ideas on what could be going on? thanks for the help

kreg357

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Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: January 20, 2013 at 5:06 AM / IP Logged

Did the PKALL program as per the install guide? ( LED responding correctly at each step. )

Where do you have the PKALL Blue/White (-) While Running wire connected?

Soldering is fun!

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