2001 tribute remote start issues

Vehicle: 2001 Mazda Tribute V6 AWD RS: Autopage C3-RS-665-2W Bypass: xpresskit PKALL Main problem: I am unable to get the car to remote start. Wires are connected according to diagram listed on this site. DMM shows +12v on both starter and ignition when started with key. When remote start is activated via remote, voltage is seen through the same wires. I am trying this without the bypass hooked up and key in ignition-both at the off position and at the run position. I have trained the tach already and it says that it took, is it worth it to try Voltage or Crank timer modes? What would the pros check in this situation? I have also tried to just program the PKALL and try it all hooked up, but the PKALL will not say it is programmed---probably because the last step in programming the PKALL is to remote start the vehicle. My brother's vehicle is sitting in my garage now for 1 week in the middle of ND winter, any assistance is much appreciated! Feel free to question any connections I have made so far and ask any questions you need to further help me. I will be checking this post often.

What exactly happens when you try to remote start it?Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

I can hear relays clicking in the brain, the remote will show exhaust smoke almost immediately thinking that it started the car. It will not even crank though.

Is the neutral safety wire seeing ground?  It must see ground in order to remote start.  Is the hoodpin wire seeing ground?  It must not be grounded in order to remote start.  Is the foot brake wire active or seeing any voltage?   Did you try the shutdown diagnostics?   The unit may tell you what is keeping it from starting. Advanced

I have installed about 7 remote starts and all were W2W except for a recent Grand Cherokee that was D2D and was a breeze. Anyways: Yes the neutral safety is seeing ground. I have it grounded to the same spot as the alarm brain ground and I know that is getting it. Locks work properly and it seems to be clicking relays and responding to the remote. Ground should be good. Hoodpin wire is not seeing ground, I detached this wire from the stock hoodpin so it would guarantee an open circuit. Foot brake wire is properly hooked up. Shutdown diagnostics show nothing. That is what is kind of funny, it seems to think it is starting the car when it is not even cranking it. It has never, according to the alarm brain, been "shut down" other than by me stopping it via the 2way remote. I have the factory security disarm wire hooked up and it seems to be functioning correctly. Without it hooked up, I set off the factory alarm when unlocking and opening the doors if it is locked with the factory remote first. With the wire hooked up, this isn't happening. Is it getting a bad tach signal? Even though it says it read it when I train it to the brain with the proper flashing of the LED? Can that cause this situation? I am about to go try my DMM on the tach wire again and possibly try another coil for a signal...any other suggestions out there?

Since it isn't even cranking the starter I would think tach isn't your main issue (although since it is thinking the vehicle is started, it is most likely an issue). When you remote start it, do you get 12v on the starter wire? Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

A month later and job still not done. I am about to quit trying and remove it altogether... Yes, I do have 12v on the starter wire when attempting it with the remote. It only shows for a brief period and when starting it with the key it seems to show 12v for a few milliseconds longer. The remote start seems to not give 12v as long before shutting off the juice. It still does not crank AT ALL. I have tried switching settings to voltage sense AND just to cranking for a predetermined time. Nothing. Ideas?

Did you try remote starting with the key in the ignition , not turned, how about with the vehicle running under key, did you try pit stop where you press remote start and take the key out while the vehicle stays runnIngAdvanced

Yep, tried both. Went with a larger (12ga) ground wire, went ground straight to battery, so I ami officially ruling out the ground. Ran a second larger (12ga) wire for power straight to battery, that didn't fix it. As far as ignition, starter, acc...they test out. Do I consider the alarm brain at this point?

i know it's tedious but maybe listing all of your connections, what autopage wire you connected to the vehicle and bypass.  Maybe fresh eyes on here will see something. Advanced