viper5904, dball 2012 ford focus

Hey Guys, Long time lurker, 1st time registering and posting. I'm looking for help from the awesome knowledge base here. I'm installing the Viper 5904, DBALL bypass, and Smart Start with GPS on a 2012 Ford Focus SE Hatchback. The car has the standard power locks w/ keyless entry and securilock pass anti theft as well as the Perimeter Alarm option. I hope that this thread will help future installers on this vehicle. Through searching the forums I think I'm pretty close to being on point. I would really just like if someone could please validate my connections or correct me if I'm wrong before I start cutting into things. I have a truck equipment company and purchased the items through an authorized local distributor, but most of you know the drill with DEI; if you're not a direct dealer with them they're not helping you. I have a degree in Mech engineering and have done many mobile audio & electronic installs, but this is my first crack at a remote start/ alarm system. I'm confident in my ability, just want to make sure I have the wiring down. The only thing I'm really not sure on right now is the Arm/ Disarm OEM Alarm Outputs H2/4 and H2/ 24?   Here's what I have right now: Main Harness, 6 Pin Connector    Harness/ Pin: Harness Wire Color: Connection: Vehicle Wire Color H1/1: Red: (+) 12VDC Constant Input: Red or Yellow at BCM H1/2: Black:(-) Chassis Ground: Ground H1/3: Brown: (+) Siren Output: Red wire on Siren H1/4: WHITE/ Brown: Parking Light Isolation Wire: Not Used H1/5: White: Parking Light Output: Parking Light switch H1/6: Orange: (-) 500mA Ground when armed output: Not Used Auxiliary/ Shutdown/ Trigger Harness, 24 pin    Harness/ Pin: Harness Wire Color: Connection: Vehicle Wire Color H2/1: Pink/ White: (-) 200mA Ignition/ Flex Relay Control Output: Not Used H2/2: BLACK/ White: (-) Neutral Safety Input: Ground H2/3: Blue/ White: (-) 200mA 2nd Status/ Rear Defogger Output: GREEN/ Orange @ BCM H2/4: GREEN/ Black: (-) 200mA OEM Alarm Disarm Output: ??? H2/5: RED / White: (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output: RED / White on DBALL H2/6: Green: (-) Door Trigger Input (N/C or N/O): GREEN/ Purple, White, Green, Yellow w/ diode isolation H2/7: BLACK/ Yellow: (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision Output: WHITE/ Brown H2/8: BROWN / Black: (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output: Blue/ White H2/9: Dark Blue: (-) 200mA Status Output: Not Used (According to DBAll, not required in D2D mode) H2/10: Pink: (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output: Not Used H2/11: WHITE/ Black: (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output: Not Used H2/12: Violet: (+) Door Trigger Input: Not Used H2/13: WHITE/ Violet: (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output: Not Used H2/14: Violet/ Black: (-) 200mA Aux 2 Output: Not Used H2/15: ORANGE / Black: (-) 200mA Aux 4 Output: Not Used H2/16: Brown: (+) Brake Shutdown Input: GREEN/ Red H2/17: Grey: (-) Hood Pin Input (N/C or N/O): Blue/ Orange H2/18: Violet/ Yellow: (-) 200mA Starter Output: Not Used H2/19: Blue: (-) Trunk Pin/ Instant Trigger Input (N/C or N/O):     Yellow/ Orange H2/20: Grey/ Black: (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input: Not Used H2/21: WHITE/ Blue: (-) Remote Start/ Turbo Timer Activation Input: Not Used H2/22: Orange: (-) 200mA Accessory Output: Not Used H2/23: Violet/ White: Tachometer Input: GREEN/ Gray, Gray / YELLOW, PURPLE / Gray, or Yellow/Orange (Front of Engine) H2/24: GREEN/ White: (-) 200mA OEM Alarm Arm Output:     ??? Door Lock, 3 pin connector (5 Pin Relay Required)    Harness/ Pin     Harness Wire Color     Connection     Vehicle Wire Color 1: Blue: (-) 500mA Unlock Output: Cut Lock/ Unlock (Black wire); Blue wire to switch side; Diode on Blue wire cathode on DEI side; switch side to Input 30; Car side to Input 87a 2: Empty: Not Used      3: Green: (-) 500 mA Lock Output: Input 85 on Relay    Remote Start, 10 pin heavy gauge connector    Harness/ Pin     Harness Wire Color     Connection     Vehicle Wire Color H3/1: Pink: (+) Ignition 1 Input/ Output: BROWN / Yellow Ignition Switch H3/2: RED / White: (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 2/ Flex Relay Input 87: Not Used H3/3: Orange: (+) Accessory Output: PURPLE / Green @ Ignition Switch H3/4: Violet: (+) Starter Output (Car Side of Starter Kill): Cut Blue/ White; Violet to starter H3/5: Green: (+) Starter Input (Key Side of Starter Kill): Cut Blue/ White; Violet to switch H3/6: Red: (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 1 Input: Red or Yellow @ BCM H3/7: Pink/ White: (+) Ignition 2/ Flex Relay Output: Not Used H3/8: Pink/ Black: (+) Flex Relay Input 87A key side (if required) of Flex Relay: Not Used H3/9: RED / Black: (+) Fused (30A) Accessory/ Starter Input: Red or Yellow @ BCM H3/10: NC: No Connection: None I'm tracking a relay and diode required for the lock/ unlock portion; 4 diodes for the door triggers and 1 for the DBALL Keysense wire. Did I miss anything? Any help is greatly appreciated! Adrian Genuine USA Truck ag

OK did some more research and found this bulletin from directed on disarming the factory alarm on 2010 Ford vehicles (and later I'm assuming).   Only thing is this does not list DB-ALL as a compatible module. This diagram slightly conflicts with the DB All wiring diagram with respect to the use of the GWR wire. This diagram says to connect it, while the DB-All instructions say it is not necessary if using D2D mode. Anyone familiar with this? Thank you! ag

Hi Adrian, Before you go any further, I would confirm with Xpresskit that the Dball is compatible with your vehicle. It comes up as an option on their site, but when reviewing the manual, it does not say that it is compatible with the 2012 Focus. The 2012 and 2010 are different vehicles. Idatalink's ADS-AL CA module is most definitely the better option for your vehicle. They have a solution listed for the 2012 Focus which eliminates the need for a relay. Diodes are still required. it will greatly simplify the install as almost all wiring is completed at the BCM behind the glovebox. Also, you do not list whether your vehicle in automatic or manual transmission.Don't be a lemming...

Hi Johnny, Thank you for the response! The vehicle is an Auto Trans, I apologize for not listing it. Yea, I noticed that too that the site and manual conflict on compatibility. Kind of odd. As I said, I'm not cutting into anything until I'm 110% certain on this. My distributor flashed the module and listed it as working on the vehicle although I imagine they just used the website same as us. I will certainly look into the idatalink unit before I do anything, I appreciate the referral. This is looking like a bear of an install on this vehicle as it stands. ag

Adrian, It's not bad if you have the correct tools (module) for the job. You can easily take a look at idatalink's site, download the instructions for the ADS-AL CA for your Focus, and determine if it is worth it to return the Dball and use the ADS-AL CA instead. I've used the Dball once and will never use it again if I can help it. Even when installed correctly, proper operation of the Dball is still not guaranteed. I've looked over your first post and have a few comments, but not sure if they'll be helpful because we don't know if the Dball will work with your vehicle yet.Don't be a lemming...

I was just looking through the iDatalink instructions. I love that it directly addresses the questions I have (as you said). The whole thing feels a lot more straight forward just looking at it. I might just go with it. What comments did you have, despite the bypass module? Thanks again.ag

Assuming you are not using the AL CA: You can not simply go to the parking light switch for park lights. 4 more diodes for 4 separate wires. The door locks and factory alarm integration will take a bit of know how and experience. For your heavy gauge RS starter wires, I believe you meant green to switch instead of violet? "H3/5: Green: (+) Starter Input (Key Side of Starter Kill): Cut Blue/ White; Violet to switch" H3/6 Red from RS, I would connect to the 12V Red wire at BCM H3/9 RED / BLK from RS, I would connect to 12V Yellow wire at BCM You will also find that your second post will be no use to you. It's for a different vehicle with a different set of requirements. If you choose to go with the idatalink module, you will have to do one of two things: You will need to register with their website (need a business), and also purchase the actual weblink cable. Or you will have to take the vehicle to a professional installation facility to complete the module programming. This is because the programming of the module is a more involved process than for other vehicles. It will have to use your key data to create specific firmware for your vehicle.Don't be a lemming...

Johnny, I figured as much on the second post, its all I could find regarding Ford factory alarm disarming. You are correct on the H3/5, I did mean green; great catch. I found a document from DEI on how to wire the single wire door lock specific to 2012+ Focus'. Just involved a single relay and diode. So I'm back to if I stick with the DB-All, the factory alarm integration presents a problem to me as I'm not finding any literature or posts on how to do it. The more I look, the more I don't like the feedback that it seems almost half the time the DB-All's have issues. The iDatalink seems like the better (or at least simpler) option, but as you said I need to get it flashed. I am in the truck equipment and accessory business although my local electronic distributor does not carry iDatalink. Based on iDatalink's registration, they want to know where you purchase your products from so obviously I'd need to open an account with one of their distributors. I did find some online sites selling the iDatalinks and offering free flashing with purchase, although I'm sure they're unauthorized. What to do here, hmmmm.ag

Hi Adrian, Another option would be the Fortin Evo-all module. Although a little more involving, it will also provide far more integration than the Dball. If you can get that unit sent to you flashed, return the Dball. https://ifar.ca/en/vehicles/ford/focus/2012/ I have never done an install in a 2012+ Focus. I have done earlier versions but have always used the idatalink stuff. If you insist on using the Dball, first confirm that it will work, then keep in mind that there are 3 tech documents for the door lock and door trigger system. Directechs says the factory alarm arms with lock while the door is open (unlocked maybe?). The factory alarm disarms with transponder and ignition. My recomendation to you is use either the Fortin, or Idatalink solution.Don't be a lemming...

Yea I just talked to a buddy of mine who used to work for one of the big installers in my area...he also said the iDatalink products are "awesome". As I think about it I'm not sure about places saying they send the idatalink unit pre-flashed because the directions show you need to have it read the key prior to flashing. Luckily my buddy can get the unit flashed for me once install is complete, so I'm just going to take your initial recommendation and go with idatalink. The DB All seems like more trouble than its worth given the reviews I've seen. The lesson learned here is to do a little better research instead of just taking what some distributor wants to sell. Now just fingers crossed that my distributor will take the dball back with no problems. Basically all I did was take it out of the box and just packed it back up; but needless to say I really appreciate the advice, I'm glad I didn't go cutting into things with something that probably won't work right. I'll post back up once I have the iDatalink unit thanks again so much!ag