the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

electronic trunk release


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 14, 2013 at 8:03 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the manual uploads.  Interesting unit.  It is an alarm system with keyless entry.

It appears that the Gray 2nd Channel Output wire is your Trunk Release Output, but I can't be sure from the limited info in the guide.  That wire would be connected to the relay mentioned above.

If your car does not have a trunk pin, you can always install your own and connect to the Blue Trunk Trigger Input wire.

Soldering is fun!
rdgfx32003 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: January 11, 2013
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: January 14, 2013 at 12:36 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks. I'll proceed per your instructions. electronic trunk release - Page 2 -- posted image.
Incidently, there is a wire off of the trunk latch and the key switch mechanism.(two seperate locations and different color wires) One of those operates the light in the trunk. I could use that for the Blue Trunk Trigger Input wire if the polarity is correct. Would that connect directly to the blue wire regardless of polarity. (I'm pretty sure no. Of course the polarity would make a difference.)
I verified the wire off of the trunk latch mechanism is a single wire that operates the trunk light. How would I determine polarity of that wire with my DMM?
I'm not sure of the other two that come off of the key switch mechanism, yet.
rdgfx32003 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: January 11, 2013
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: January 14, 2013 at 4:09 PM / IP Logged  
It turns out the other two wires went to the factory alarm.
If you're still out there, is there anything electronic I may have laying around broken (lots of broken electronics here) that I can rob the diode out of?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,827
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 14, 2013 at 7:06 PM / IP Logged  

Most Printed Circuit Boards have diodes but you need a blocking diode ( not a zener, etc ).  You can check the printed marking on the diode for 1N4007 or 1N4004.  If you find them, delicately de-solder them and then check them with a DMM.  Here is a link : http://www.ehow.com/how_7378447_test-diode-rectifier.html

The easy way, would be to go to RadioShack and get a 3 or 5 pack of 1N4004's for about $2.

Soldering is fun!
rdgfx32003 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: January 11, 2013
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: January 18, 2013 at 8:28 AM / IP Logged  
I didn't want to go to the Shack,really. I went ahead and went though.
Thanks for your help.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 19, 2013 at 8:31 AM / IP Logged  
All the trigger wires in the Toyota are NEG.
Do you have a SECURITY LED on your instrument panel?
If so you have a factory alarm and its location on Japanese and UK models was right rear quarter behind the door.
Doors, front and rear storage areas and engine bay all have triggers.
rdgfx32003 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: January 11, 2013
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: January 19, 2013 at 5:27 PM / IP Logged  
Hi howie II,
The factory alarm is not present. The Mr2 has had the Car Pro alarm since I've owned it.
All the factory alarm wiring is present, which makes it easier.
Thanks for checking out the post, every suggestion is appreciated.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 19, 2013 at 5:49 PM / IP Logged  
Then the switch (trigger) wires from the front and I think rear cargo areas and the doors all go to that location.
The engine bay is quite easy to mount a switch, go through the right there's a massive grommet in the bulkhead, left r/hand rear carpet on the other side and you're through.
P.S. I also mount the siren on that model there, can't be got at and better sound, also I then mount the alarm module and right front seat. Don't worry about long cable runs, the wiring at the ignition switch is thin gauge, esp. the starter wire.
Page of 2

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Saturday, July 5, 2025 • Copyright © 1999-2025 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer