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2012 toyota rav4 imo/imi wire


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tianot 
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Posted: January 13, 2013 at 9:59 PM / IP Logged  
Hello guys! I install a remote starter into a 2012 Toyota rav4 using a cm6200 module and fortin key override all bypass. Everything is working fine except the IMO and IMI wire in the ECM under the hood. There is no light GREEN/ black and pink wire in the Gray connector. What I found there on that pin location is a yellow and white wire. Base on the k-all diagram it's a light GREEN/ black and pink and its the same for the 2010-2011 model of rav4. Do you guys know what is the right wire for the IMO/IMI of a 2012 rav4. I end up using the 556uw bypass for now. II was thinking of getting the ads-tb bypass if I could not make k-all work.
Thanks
tianot
shortcircuit161 
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Posted: January 13, 2013 at 11:33 PM / IP Logged  
I've done 2011-2012 RAV4s with the IMI/IMO wires and it's a pain in the a** to get those wires. They are tucked way up high under the dash behind the fuse panel.
I would HIGHLY recommend going with the ADS-TB at the very least. But if you want to control the locks and factory alarm, I would go with the ADS-ALCA. They have a new firmware (TL5) that gets the data right from the OBD-II connector just under the dash. It's one of the easiest installs I've done and no need to touch the IMI/IMO wires.
You would need to either have access to, or know someone with access to, flash the module since it requires a dealer account with iDatalink but it's sooooooooooo much easier and works better in my opinion.
tianot 
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Posted: January 14, 2013 at 12:39 AM / IP Logged  
I've done a lot of 2010-2011 rav4 without any problem using the IMO/IMI wire but this time 2012 rav4 has different wire. The diagram said the wire is the same to the 2010-2011 rav4 model.
tianot
kreg357 
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Posted: January 14, 2013 at 5:36 AM / IP Logged  

Fortin suggests that the 2010 thru 2012 RAV4 with 80 Bit G key are the same.  Have you tried looking here.

https://ifar.ca/en/download/2704/

Soldering is fun!
shortcircuit161 
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Posted: January 14, 2013 at 10:54 AM / IP Logged  
The correct wire colors are pink and light green on a WHITE connector.   Where do you see anything about going to the ECM under the hood?
There is a gray connector right in front of the white connector you need to go to for the IMO/IMI wires under the dash. Look for the wire colors and then trace them back to the correct connector. 2010-2012 regular key and push to start are the same.
tianot 
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Posted: January 16, 2013 at 12:05 AM / IP Logged  

i use the key overide all bypass but i could not find the imo/imi wire in the ecm under hood. https://ifar.ca/download/6251/preview.html

tianot
shortcircuit161 
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Posted: January 16, 2013 at 8:29 AM / IP Logged  
That's interesting how that guide shows a different location for the IMI/IMO wires. I've never gone under the hood for those connections.
They are under the dash behind the fuse box. Check out the link that Kreg357 posted above and see if that helps.
If you check Xpresskit, page 10 of the guide for the DB-ALL also shows it under the dash behind the fuse box.
http://xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7432&productid=461&firmwareid=2727
sparkie 
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Posted: January 16, 2013 at 9:06 PM / IP Logged  
The wires are easy to get in the smaller of the 2 ECM plugs, They are right in the corner of the plug. Easier to get them there than under the dash. I would recommend the ADSALCA module though. It works great with the TL5 software and is much easier to install.
sparky
shortcircuit161 
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Posted: January 17, 2013 at 7:06 AM / IP Logged  
sparkie wrote:
The wires are easy to get in the smaller of the 2 ECM plugs, They are right in the corner of the plug. Easier to get them there than under the dash. I would recommend the ADSALCA module though. It works great with the TL5 software and is much easier to install.
That's the setup I use for these. ADS-ALCA with TL5 firmware. Immo data is taken right from the OBD-II connector and it works the factory alarm and locks. No ECM, no crawling under the dash, simple and works great! Easiest install!! And tach signal is at the OBD-II also.   Only need to run a hood pin (if no factory pin switch is installed).

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