1. Voltage sense works sometimes, but why not just do it right?
If you're going to one of the coil packs for tach and you're using the GREEN/ orange, you just have the wrong wire, that's all. Look again at all the coil packs, and you'll notice that one wire is always the same color, and another is always different...I think they're tan with different color stripes. You want to use the wire that's always different.
Immobilizer bypass: Make this the
last thing you worry about on your installation. Complete everything else first. Then, leave one of your keys sitting in the ignition and attempt to remote start....does it work? If it works, the rest of your install is good, and you can set up your immobilizer bypass......or if it doesn't work, you have other install errors; deal with them first.
2. Arm, disarm, lock, unlock.....this can get slightly complicated, so let me briefly explain, so you know what's going on.
You may notice that if you insert your key in the driver's door and turn it, all the doors will lock, and the factory Dodge alarm will arm.
If you turn the key the other way once, the domelight will come on, and the Dodge alarm will disarm. If you turn it in that same direction again, the doors will unlock.
And you don't want to throw away your factory alarm, do you? Better to keep it working! The more security the better.
So the wire you want to find is actually the light GREEN/ orange, at the CTM in the driver's kick. The wire will test as a partial ground when you turn the key back and forth in the door.
And you can't just hook the alarm's outputs straight up to the car through resistors. Some tech sheets say that you must use the alarm's outputs to trigger relays, and use the relays to trigger the resistors...but I find this unnecessary. It will usually work if you just isolate the alarm's outputs from each other with diodes.
So, here's what you'd do. You'll connect your alarm's lock output to a 644-ohm resistor, then through a 1-amp diode, and then to the Dodge's light GREEN/ orange.
Take the alarm's unlock output, and the factory alarm disarm output, and connect them BOTH directly to a 1565-ohm resistor, and then through a 1-amp diode, and then to the Dodge's light GREEN/ orange.
But here's the catch. The diodes reduce the alarm's output just a little bit......you're going to have to make the resistor values just a little bit lower to compensate. I couldn't tell you the exact value that will work, but you don't have to be too picky....shoot for about 10% lower than the stated values and see if it works.
And if your resistors are off a little, you won't break anything....it just won't work, that's all. Also, don't forget to set your alarm to double-pulse unlock.
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|pnk/blk & RED / lt blu|+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|blue |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|GREEN/ red (18 ga)|+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|BLACK/ orange |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|green |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|WHITE/ green |*1 |conn. 2, pin 10 @ CTM *2 |
| POWER UNLOCK|same wire | | |
| LOCK MOTOR|ORANGE / black | |conn. 2, pin 4 @ CTM *2 |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|blue | |conn. 2, pin 6 @ CTM *2 |
| DISARM DEFEAT|pink/black | |conn. 2, pin 5 @ CTM *2 |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|BLACK / YELLOW | |headlight switch |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|RED / yellow | |conn. 1, pin 4 @ CTM *2 |
| HEADLIGHTS|lt. GREEN/ orange |- |headlight switch |
| DOOR TRIGGER|*3 |- |CTM *2 |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger | | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|tan/black |- |conn. 2, pin 7 @ CTM *2 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|lt. GREEN/ orange |*4 |conn. 2, pin 14 @ CTM *2 |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|same wire | | |
| TACHOMETER|*5 | |ignition coil |
| SPEED SENSE|WHITE/ orange or blue| |conn. 2, pin 27 @ PCM *6 |
| BRAKE WIRE|WHITE/ tan |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|BLACK/ red |- |steering column or CTM *2 |
| WIPERS|purple(L), RED / gry(H|+ |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|lt. blue - white |A |driver window switch |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/wht - pur/wht |A |driver kick panel |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|blu/wht - RED / blk |A |driver kick panel |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|gry/blk - grn/wht |A |driver kick panel |
| RADIO 12V|pink |+ |radio |
| RADIO GROUND|black |- |radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|RED / white |+ |radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|white |+ |radio |
| LF SPEAKER|lt grn/pu-lt grn/grn| |radio |
| RF SPEAKER|lt blu/pu-lt blu/blk| |radio |
| LR SPEAKER|wht/red - wht/blk | |radio |
| RR SPEAKER|tan/pur - tan/blk | |radio |
Notes:
NOTE: Chrysler vehicles that use a gray ignition key have an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed when remote starting. Use DEI part number 555C or 555U. *1 Lock is negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays. *2 The Central Timer Module is in the driver kick panel. *3 The driver door trigger is tan in connector 2, pin 15. The passenger door trigger (and rears) is tan/red in connector 2, pin 13. Use both and diode isolate each. See directfax document #1076 for wiring information. *4 Arm is negative trigger thru a 644 ohm resistor. Disarm is negative trigger thru a 1565 ohm resistor. MUST use relays. This wire will also lock the doors, and it will unlock with a double pulse. *5 On the 5.9L models use BLACK/ gray at the ignition coil. The 4.7L models have an ignition coil for each cylinder, use the wires that is NOT GREEN/ orange at one of the coils. *6 The Powertrain Control Module is on the passenger fender.
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