board removal, orion hcca 250 2nd gen.

I have a second generation Orion HCCA 250 amplifier that I want to remove the board. I need to do this to replace the incoming power wires, which are secured to the board via pan head machine screws, nylock nuts and ring terminals on the incoming ground and positive wire.    Are there any instructions or precautions for removing this board or replacing it in the heat sink? I will have to remove the heat sink bars on either side of the amp. I was wondering if the board will just lift out after removal of those bars and the screws securing the board to the chassis? Thanks, MikeChronic, late stage optimist.

If you remove the screws from the 2 bars, and remove the screws in each corner of the board, the board should come out of the heat sink. There is a strip of insulating tape between the transistors and the heat sink. Is it orange in color and opaque? If not, you may have a little trouble getting the board out. The opaque tape is Kapton tape, it has no adhesive on the top side. The other tape they used does have adhesive on the top side. If it has the adhesive tape, the easiest and safest way to get the board out is to find an allen wrench that fits through one of the screw holes of the clamp, gently pry the allen wrench toward the center of the board. This will separate the transistors from the heat sink. The adhesive between the bar and the transistors is much better than the adhesive under the transistors. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE BARS FROM THE TRANSISTORS. What you are trying to do can be done without removing the bars. EDIT: the 250 may have 6 screws holding the board to the heat sink. One in each corner and one each side near the middle of the board.

Hi, and thank you for your help (again).    The tape is yellowish, almost like household masking tape color. I have not touched it yet to check for adhesive. It looked as though it was sticky on the surface facing up. That is why I posted this question, as I did not want to damage all those transistors. This board does have more than four screws at each corner, although I did not note the exact location of the other screws. They are not dead center because I think their are board components near the center preventing location of screws there. I looked for internal fuses like what my other amplifiers have, those automotive type fuses, and there are none on this board. The owner manual does not specify a rating for an in line fuse for the incoming power. Do you think a 60 amp fuse will be sufficient? It will not be used for anything less than 2 ohms and won't be wired to more than two sub woofers, and I don't operate my system for SPL, just sound quality. I am thinking 60 amps based on the 6 gauge power wires attached to the board, which look to be OEM.Chronic, late stage optimist.

OK. My memory is not so good. The tape is actually light grey, almost white. It has no adhesive. The board comes up once you take out all the screws on the board and the heat sink bars on both sides. Carefully....Chronic, late stage optimist.