remote start, 07 tacoma

Ok here's what the local shop is telling me. They seem to think that it sounds like the bypass module didn't program to the key correctly, and that it isn't telling the fuel pump to turn on. He said the way to test it is to unplug the bypass module, put the key in and turn it to run, and then use the remote start to start the engine. He said if it starts first try, that's a very good indication I need to reprogram the key. So I'm gonna try that this afternoon.

Anything is possible, but that doesn't sound quite right to me.  Almost sounds like he is thinking

Passlock2.  Your Tacoma has a transponder based ignition immobilizer system.  Once the bypass module is programmed to the car, it handles the bypass thru "Data".  There is no transponder chip involved at that point.   Additionally, turning the ignition key to the ON position actually does a lotof the work the remote start H3 wiring does, so tends to prove nothing.

Here are a few tests you can to do see if it is a transponder bypass issue.

1.  Wrap the ignition key's head area with many layers of aluminum foil and try a regular key start.    The engine should crank but shouldn't start.  There should be some type of "Security" or Engine    Check light on the instrument panel during the start attempt.2.  Start the engine with a key ( no foil ) and try going into PitStop mode with the Viper.  If this works OK most      of the H3 wiring is OK.3.  Unplug the bypass modules connectors ( as per the Factory Reset procedure ) and try a remote     start.  You should get the same symptoms as #1 above.4.  Hold a working ignition key very close to the ignition switch and try a remote start.  The engine      should start, no lights on the instrument panel.5.  Complete the rest of the bypass module Factory Reset procedure.  Then set the Installation Mode     and lock it in.  Then do the bypass to vehicle programming.  Make sure that you get the correct,     expected response at each step.

Try another remote start with no key near the ignition switch.

The bypass module's wire connections to the Tacoma are critical and must be properly soldered and

well insulated.  Are you going W2W or D2D between the Viper and the FLCAN?  Are you sure the FLCANis flashed with the FLC-AL(TB) TL firmware?

Soldering is fun!

I'm excluding myself from any further posts on this thread, I don't need any more exiles!

kreg357 wrote: Anything is possible, but that doesn't sound quite right to me.  Almost sounds like he is thinking Passlock2.  Your Tacoma has a transponder based ignition immobilizer system.  Once the bypass module is programmed to the car, it handles the bypass thru "Data".  There is no transponder chip involved at that point.   Additionally, turning the ignition key to the ON position actually does a lot of the work the remote start H3 wiring does, so tends to prove nothing. Here are a few tests you can to do see if it is a transponder bypass issue. 1.  Wrap the ignition key's head area with many layers of aluminum foil and try a regular key start.     The engine should crank but shouldn't start.  There should be some type of "Security" or Engine     Check light on the instrument panel during the start attempt. 2.  Start the engine with a key ( no foil ) and try going into PitStop mode with the Viper.  If this works OK most      of the H3 wiring is OK. 3.  Unplug the bypass modules connectors ( as per the Factory Reset procedure ) and try a remote      start.  You should get the same symptoms as #1 above. 4.  Hold a working ignition key very close to the ignition switch and try a remote start.  The engine      should start, no lights on the instrument panel. 5.  Complete the rest of the bypass module Factory Reset procedure.  Then set the Installation Mode      and lock it in.  Then do the bypass to vehicle programming.  Make sure that you get the correct,      expected response at each step. Try another remote start with no key near the ignition switch. The bypass module's wire connections to the Tacoma are critical and must be properly soldered and well insulated.  Are you going W2W or D2D between the Viper and the FLCAN?  Are you sure the FLCAN is flashed with the FLC-AL(TB) TL firmware?

I'm doing D2D. And yes I'm sure it's got the proper firmware because I reset it and reloaded it myself. But when programming the key it didn't seem to do like the directions said it would. So that's kinda why I'm leaning towards that method. But if turning the key to the "run" position doesn't determine anything, couldn't I just put the key in the ignition and not turn it at all and try it?

Update: Truck has been sitting for approximately 7 hours or more, put the key in the ignition, didn't turn it, just put it in. Hit the remote start button and started up like a champ. I'm gonna start with reprogramming the bypass module.

if the bypass wont program as per the instructions then most likely you have a misplaced wire. bad power, loose ground, missing ignition inputs, etc.

soundnsecurity wrote: if the bypass wont program as per the instructions then most likely you have a misplaced wire. bad power, loose ground, missing ignition inputs, etc.

Reset and reprogrammed the bypass and all is working flawlessly! Thanks again for all your help I know this has been way more complicated than it ever should have been.