remote start, 07 tacoma

Here's an over view NOTE colours may not be the same, not sure which Toyota I did it for. E83_tacoma_wiring.bmp

Thanks guys! tons of help!

kreg357 wrote: H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT          BLACK/ red (+)  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6 H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2   WHITE/ red (30A) (+)    ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5 H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT            WHITE/ green  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 2 H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE) GREEN/ black  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7 H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)    GREEN/ black  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7 H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT       WHITE/ red (30A) (+)    ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5 H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT          blue / YELLOW  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1  *** Set to IGN2 H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT          WHITE/ red (30A) (+)    ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5 H3/10 NC (no connection) You will need an additional 30/40 Amp SPDT relay with 20 Amp fuse to power the Tacoma's Starter2 circuit.  Wire as follows : Relay Pin 85 to Viper Purple (-) 200mA Starter Output ( thin wire ) Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant (  WHITE/ red (30A) (+)    ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5 ) thru 20 Amp fuse Relay Pin 30 to Tacoma  BLACK/ white (+)  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3 Relay P{in 87A  not used - insulate

Thanks for all the help man! Last question just to clarify 2 things...H3/8 is not used right? And also, the guy that posted after you about the relay indicated a diode between pins 86 and 85 of the relay.  Is the diode necessary in this case?  Hopefully not lol, as I had having to fool with those damn things.

Do you want to tell him why it should be mandatory Kregg?

Yes, H3/8 is not used for your install.

The diode ( code name IHOH Quencher   )  is for quenching spikes generated by the relays coil.  It is a wise safety precaution if your R/S unit's output is not designed to safely drive a relay.  While I haven't read anything that specifically states the Vipers outputs are designed and protected for relay use, they do state in the install guide that they are for relay use.  Other installers have posted that they never use the coil diode and have not had any problems.  The 1N4004 or 1N4007 diodes are available at RadioShack in 3 packs for less than $3 and soldering one on takes a minute or so.

Soldering is fun!

Soldering and I are like ex's...we prefer not to have anything to do with each other unless necessary, preferably an absolute emergency and no loss lol.

less, not loss

How do you intend to join your wires?

Ahh, man.  You're killing me.      Look at my byline.   Soldering really is fun, just gotta practice a lot.     Ideally, you should solder all your connections.  Those T-Taps and Scotch-Locks are nothing but trouble down the road.

More info on relay coil quenching diodes : http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm    About half way down the page.

Quenching Diodes:

Anytime that a relay coil is driven by a circuit that is not specifically designed to drive a relay, you should use a quenching/suppression

diode connected in parallel with the relay coil. The diagram below will show the connection of the diode. Initially, you may think the diode

serves no purpose because the voltage applied to the relay cannot pass through the diode. This is true when the relay is energized. The

diode comes into play when the power source is removed from the relay coil. When power is applied to the relay coil, a magnetic field is

created and energy is stored in the coil. When power is removed, the magnetic field collapses causing a reverse voltage to be generated

(it's called inductive kickback or back EMF). The back EMF can easily reach 200 volts. The diode will absorb the reverse voltage spike.

This voltage, if not absorbed by the diode, will cause premature failure of switch contacts and may cause the failure of power switching

transistors. You can use virtually any type of rectifier or switching diode (i.e. 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N400x... or Radio Shack part #s 276-1101,

276-1102, 276-1103, 276-1104).

Very cheap insurance for your very expensive Viper system. 

Soldering is fun!

First point I did once about 5 months ago tell someone to use diodes on a Viper he "forgot" and lost his lock/unlock and aux. He was begging for the next month for anyone to come up with a work around, obviously his supplier found out and told him where to go. IMO diodes on trigger wires to relays should be mandatory. In fact had you read your Viper instructions owners' manual, they actually tell you to diode aux and NEG start ignition and ACC wires from plug H2 when feeding relays. In the General Section are three lengthy but informative threads on "how to" and "why" you should solder. The back EMP on a relay shut-down from the coil generates about 250 volts. 1N4004 has an inverse value of 400 volts so it should work fine. Using T-Taps = inferior electrical joint with a higher contact resistance if it even makes the join. Vibration shakes them apart. Moisture induced corrosion will finally kill them off after about 3 months. If you can't solder or test properly don't even try this install.