2005 chrysler town & country black key

Getting ready to install R/S on a 2005 Chrysler town&country with a black key,does this mean NO immobilizer to bypass ? Anything I need to be aware of on this vehicle besides the normal thing? Thanks for you Pros time !   Tony

Hi, Tony!

Yes, Black ignition key means no transponder based ignition immobilizer system.

The next big question is : Does the mini-van have the Factory Alarm? 

Could be an issue if it does have the Factory Alarm.  Bulldog Security & Ready Remotesuggest that it can be disarmed only with the factory FOB.  Here is info from Omega :OEM Alarm Arm  VIOLET/LT BLUE (-)   @  PIN 14 AT 34 PIN CONNECTOR  OEM Alarm Disarm  VIOLET/LT BLUE   @  PIN 14 AT 34 PIN CONNECTOR  RESISTORS ARE THE SAME AS LOCK & UNLOCK BUT Apply In The Opposite Direction

I've done Dodge Caravan's but none of them had the Factory Alarm.  Pretty easy vehicle to

do but you will need some relays and resistors.  If it is just a remote start, you will needa relay with a 180 ohm resistor for the Starter MUX wire and a relay with a 2k ohm resistorfor the Parking Light wire.  Bulldog Security has a pretty good write up on this vehicle foran install with their products.

There is some controversy over the Parking Light wire.  Bulldog lists a direct connection

with the 2k ohm resistor while Ready Remote specifies a 2.1k ohm resistor and a relay to isolate the switch.  I have done it both ways without problems.  Here is the note and infofrom Ready Remote :The parking lights are negative trigger thru a 2.1K ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance

on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch. See DirectFax document

1082 for wiring information.

Link to DF 1082 :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=616

If you are installing a R/S w/keyless, you will need more relays for the one-wire door lock system.

The easy way is to get a DEI 451M door lock module ( $7 ).  It is a nice, neat module that comeswith an assortment of resistors that makes the install a breeze.  Here is a link to the 451Minstall guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726  You would follow theType H diagram using the correct resistor values.

Soldering is fun!

Can't remember what year they switched, but is it a black round key or a black key with the remote built into it?Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Thanks for the replies !  I just have one probably simple question. On the 2nd (-) starter wire is this the correct way to wire the relay ?   85--tie into starter wire from r/s         86 & 87 -ground      30- to the 2nd starter wire and add 180 ohm resistor to this wire. Gonna be doing this install tommorrow. Thanks again !!    Tony

That relay wiring should work OK.  However, there are a few improvements you could make.

Relay standard convention has Pin 85 as (-) and Pin 86 as (+), Pin 85 should go to chassis ground and Pin 86

should get the +12V from the R/S's Starter Output ( which also continues to the T&C'c Yellow Starter wire ).

It is always advisable to add a relay coil quenching diode across the coil ( 1N4007 from Pin 85 to Pin 86 with

band towards the (+) Pin 86 ).

If your R/S system has selectable 5th ignition relay, you could set it for Starter2 and use it for relay control and

not have to tap into the Starter1 wire at all.If your R/S system has a (-) 200mA Starter Output, you could use that for relay control.  See DEI Tech Tip 1083( found in this ZIP file download ) for more info & a diagram :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1076

Here are some other diagrams for the Starter MUX relay wiring :

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_TOWN-&-COUNTRY_CHRYSLER%20MINI%20VAN%20STARTER%202%20DIAGRAM.pdf http://documents.audiovox.com/700820.pdf

Soldering is fun!

If my R/S unit (DesignTech) has a -400mA status output will that work versus having a -200mA output ? No more questions I promise.

The 400mA vs 200mA output is fine but the signal is Status Output which isn't the same as Starter Output. 

You would still need a Starter signal to control the relays 180 ohm MUX output.  ( I missed the error withyour original relay wiring - it would energize the relay with a regular key start, too. )

I am not familiar with your DesignTech system but here is a good way to wire the relay :

Relay Pin 85 to DesignTech (-) 400 mA Status OutputRelay Pin 86 to DesignTech thick gauge (+) Starter Output ( which also goes to the T&C's Yellow Starter wire )Relay Pin 30 to chassis ground thru 180 ohm 1/4 watt resistorRelay Pin 87 to T&C PURPLE / Brown MUX wireRelay Pin 87A not used - insulate

This is similar to DEI TechTip 1083 but uses the DesignTechs available outputs.

As before, add a 1N4007 diode across relay pins 85 to 86 with the diodes' band towards pin 86.

Soldering is fun!