Viper 5902 Drains Battery Overnight

in a van, its probably what you just said, way too many lights. are there lights under the van too that come on when the doors open? there is a reason why chryslers have a 5 minute turn off, because they drain a ton of power when the doors are open. but, if you keep playing with the key then the car will never shut off.

Sorry Howard, I just thought you thought that I meant a (properly installed) alarm can drain a battery quickly (that's re your "Bloody hell Peter, I differentiated the draws from LED and alarm in my post", and I hadn't qualified "drain" anyhow which in my case means just that - any drain, not necessarily a strain. And not wanting top hijack, but re the van, for a one hour flattening there is something drasticly wrong. That sort of drain is easily measured. Fuses or connectors will probably spark as you disconnect the load. One hour is the equivalent of running high beams. Geez, I got home without an alternator at night with my smallish 38AH (11 year old Yuasa AGM UXH38-12) battery and still had an estimated 50% capacity left after one hour. (Admittedly an old vehicle with no electronics, but ~130W of headlights & ~30W of other lighting should be the main drain excluding stop lights & indicators.) Of course, maybe the van's battery has decided to collapse just to make you happy. Remember that a battery will show up to ~13.6V after charging. It won't show its normal ~12.7V (open circuit) voltage until after its surface charge has dissipated - ie, after up to 24 hours, or several minutes with headlights on.    If cars or vans have such a high light drain I can see why LEDs are desirable. Typically LEDs will consume at least 20 times less power for equivalent illumination. IOW 20 LED lamps have the same (or less) drain as one normal incandescent lamp.    I'll quit this hijack here to see if camarosource has heard back from his Viper Certified blokes. Hopefully if it is "impossible", they can advise which circuit is draining the battery. (Or will they find they need an additional blocking diode somewhere?) Or maybe advise that it's the battery? (It is an Optima     )

OK so I am back from alarm shop. This is what they explained and while I won't know for certain until tomorrow when I go to start the car and see if the battery is drained again, they explained it was the WINDOW MODULE. As I mentioned before, they reused some of my old modules (door, window, and passkey bypass) to help save me money and time. They explained that the Window Module was draining 300milliamps CONTINIOUSLY while ARMED. He said they never experienced this before and had to contact DEI to see what was happening. They explained (my understanding from it), is that the module that was and is in the car from the other alarm uses 300milliamps which is normal for it and it can't be fixed. They said it is built to draw 300milliamps for 30 seconds once the car is armed and then TURN OFF either: a) 30 seconds AFTER the window rolls up (course, I may have gotten that mixed up with the alarm needing 30 seconds after being armed before the shock sensor kicks in..) OR b) It's is SUPPOSED to draw 300milliamps and then once the windows roll up when armed, the window module turns off. In any event they claim it's fixed and all unusual power drain was removed when they contacted DEI and they explained how to have the Module STOP when armed.