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no power on accy


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zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 16, 2013 at 5:39 PM / IP Logged  

Car: 1993 Acura Integra LS

Issue: No 12v on radio accessory lead. Yes, there IS Accy power from ignition switch to fuse panel.

Troubleshooting: Used DMM to find any opens from the stereo to the underdash fuse panel. All associated fuses are good. Found that there's NO power coming from the "radio" fuse. Not sure how to troubleshoot this other than trying to remove the fuse box itself.

Help!

Ween 
Platinum - Posts: 1,366
Platinum spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: February 16, 2013 at 6:00 PM / IP Logged  
is there power present at the radio accessory fuse with the fuse removed?..one side should have power. do the terminals for that fuse look spread/wider than other fuses?..careful prying with a dental pick style tool will allow the terminal to contact the fuse. if you don't have continuity from accessory feed to the radio fuse, the fuse box has issues.
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 16, 2013 at 6:12 PM / IP Logged  

There's no power at all to the fuse terminal (fuse removed). Although there IS continutiy to between the fuse terminal and the accy terminal. I'm going to test the power from the Accy switch again.

zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 16, 2013 at 6:38 PM / IP Logged  
There seems to be some inconsistant information about this car on this site. The switched 12v Accy lead from the ignition switch is WHITE/ Red. Not Yellow or Yellow/Red. And there's no power coming from it. I'll have to take it apart and investigate.
soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
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Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: February 16, 2013 at 8:30 PM / IP Logged  
have you tested for voltage at all of the fuses(both sides of each fuse) with the key in the on position? sometimes its not just the fuse labeled for the radio or acc, it could be some other fuse that looks like it wouldnt have anything to do with the radio, maybe the fuse for the 12v outlets...?. if all else fails then i would just run a new wire to the vehicles accessory wire at the ignition harness.
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 16, 2013 at 8:47 PM / IP Logged  

Yeah I've looked at an electrical diagram of what circuits the radio is using. I'm not an electrical genius but I was able to understand a few things. It's rather simple, actually. I've tested both sides of the fuse and terminals they connect to. Everything tells me that it should work IF there is voltage on the WHITE/ Red wire, which there isn't. So, I put a jumper to the Yellow wire which was right above it on the same connector and the radio works. Not the solution I wanted but it confirmed that it was the ignition switch at fault.

I tested for continuity from the WHITE/ Red wire going back to the switch and it was fine. There just is not any voltage coming out. I took apart the switch and clean the contacts and applied dilectric grease but still no dice. I'll just have to replace it. Bummer.

soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
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Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: February 16, 2013 at 9:08 PM / IP Logged  
are you sure its not the plug that goes into the ignition switch? sometimes they can lose contact over time because of heat and vibration warping the plastic around the pin causing the pin to wiggle free.
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 17, 2013 at 1:42 AM / IP Logged  
The ignition switch on these cars are 1 piece. Meaning that the wires are soldered onto the ignition switch itself. Think of it as a stereo with a built in wiring harness lol.
The wiring from the IG switch to the fuse panel is good. There's just not any voltage.
soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
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Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: February 17, 2013 at 8:59 AM / IP Logged  
broken solder joint? either on the wire in question or the 12v input wire that feeds it. im sure you'd want to test all possible minor issued before you spend the money on a new cylinder. even though you are probably right about the cylinder being bad i think its worth checking even the unlikely possibilities.
zerovandez 
Copper - Posts: 115
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2008
Location: California, United States
Posted: February 17, 2013 at 5:54 PM / IP Logged  

I checked again today as another electrical failure needed testing; the heater blower motor doesn't run either. It's running directly off of the IG2 ignition position. No voltage from that lead either. All solder pads look fine. No wiggles, not broken. Luckily, I don't have to replace the entire cylinder, just the rear switch portion. Thanks for all of your help with brainstorming, friend!

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