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2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Vehicle Alarm/RS Wiring


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gaugethis 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: May 15, 2016
Location: Maryland, United States
Posted: May 15, 2016 at 3:13 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote gaugethis
If the blue pin 32 wire is not there, the car does not have an immobilizer. Been there, done that.
Silvrefox 
Copper - Posts: 126
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 11, 2005
Location: Oklahoma, United States
Posted: June 28, 2016 at 12:00 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote Silvrefox
Sorry to hit you up outta nowhere but I'm doing a 2015 Santa Fe Sport that is asking for the exact same color wire, position and plug but on mine it's called the EMS COM. I'm also using the DBALL2. If mine doesn't have that and it's pulsing in the 3 flash pattern, do I just skip the transponder programming and move to the next step and that's when it finishes programming the rest of the features?
I'd really appreciate the help.
boosh!!
Silvrefox 
Copper - Posts: 126
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 11, 2005
Location: Oklahoma, United States
Posted: June 28, 2016 at 12:20 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote Silvrefox
Never mind. The answer is, in fact, yes. Thank you gaugethis for the help.
boosh!!
thegamemaster 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 02, 2016
Posted: October 02, 2016 at 9:30 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote thegamemaster
I posted about this, but didn't know this thread was here. If you look at the EM11 from the wire side, you find a wire in pin 32. But it's Brown. Not helpful.
What do I do? Trying to set up a Bulldog RS82 with a DBALL2 in a 2016 Santa Fe Sport (no smart key).   I have everything wired except the CMS COM wire from EM11.
Rodney
guntharia 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2019
Location: California, United States
Posted: September 03, 2019 at 6:21 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote guntharia
This thread my be dead but I had a few questions. The wire listing has been amazing through my remote start/alarm installation in my 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe XL. Everything listed has matched up perfectly to my pins and color combos, so thank you!!
Anyways,
1. Does anyone know if the factory alarms were an option? I took apart my key to look for a immobilizer chip and did not find one. I took only the actual metal key (left all the plastics and green remote locking/unlocking circuit board away from the car) and was able to start and drive my car. I did notice the immobilizer receiver was around/wired at my ignition key cylinder. I am guessing that is installed no matter what as part of the assembly. I am pretty sure my car has no immobilizer installed then otherwise it wouldn't let me drive/start the vehicle. As far as a factory alarm. I noticed it did have the triangle security sticker on the drivers window and the flashing red light on the dash. I thought it was fake but maybe I do have a factory alarm?
2. For the tach wire (or fuel pump wire or oil pressure wire or oil pressure wire or "sucker motor wire") as stated for viable options for my alarm. I would love to keep the wiring inside my cabin and not through the firewall if possible. Are any of these plugs violable in the cabin area? Is there a tach wire at the back of the gauge cluster I can use instead?
3. The door unlock/lock wires I have some questions about. I believe I need to follow "Type B: Negative trigger..." wire diagram but could be wrong. Can I hook up my alarm negative lock trigger wire directly to the car brown/orange lock wire? I would ask the same of the unlock trigger wire but it appears there are two locations for unlocking the car. The yellow/black wire will only unlock the passenger doors and white wire will only unlock the drivers door? I really just want all doors to unlock at once but I believe I need to split the unlock wire? I am not sure if I need to follow tech tip 1300 as I am not sure if I actually have an oem alarm which I do not need anymore.
Thank you.
2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Vehicle Alarm/RS Wiring - Page 2 - Last Post -- posted image.
motosaki 
Member - Posts: 24
Member spacespace
Joined: January 23, 2019
Location: North Dakota, United States
Posted: September 04, 2019 at 11:22 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote motosaki
There's no data wire because the US version of that vehicle is not equipped with an immobilizer system only the Canadian cars have it. just skip it in programming. as far as the tach wire I always go under hood to a coil pack or fuel injector.
15yrs. in the industry. everything from simple deck installs, to remote starters, and full custom audio systems. I've Installed it all.
guntharia 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2019
Location: California, United States
Posted: September 04, 2019 at 3:58 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote guntharia
Thank you very much for that information. Through the firewall I go lol.
If anyone understands the door lock wiring information better than myself, some advice would be much appreciated.
guntharia 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2019
Location: California, United States
Posted: September 05, 2019 at 11:51 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote guntharia
Well most everything works. So far I only found two issues so far....
One - I wired the alarm blinker/parking light wires and split them to all four of the turn signal wires listed. Everything on the alarm side works properly but when I use the actual blinker (L or R) in the car, the entire vehicle acts like the hazard lights are on. So I guess I'm going to try the (+) parking light wires instead. The (-) hazard wire might be an option but it looks like that is a negative output instead of the required positive per the alarm.
Two - my door locks worked by direct wiring the car alarm. After some hours I went back to the car and unlocked the doors with my alarm key fob and the factory alarm is working! I did not arm the car before with the factory key fob or factory key but it definitely enabled itself. If anyone could help me understand the tech tip 1300 diagram or the best way to wire switch (diode size?) with the factory wires to disable the factory alarm, I would be very grateful. I currently have the dome supervision wire of the alarm wired to the dome supervision wire of the car so I believe that would need to be disconnected and reinstalled per the tech tip?
Power Lock BROWN / orange - dash fuse box, rear, white 32 pin plug (E), pin 5 ~{Currently direct wired to alarm}~
Power Unlock yellow/black (passenger doors) - dash fuse box, rear, white 32 pin plug (E), pin 6 ~{Currently direct wired to alarm}~
Notes: To unlock the driver door, you can 5 wire the driver unlock motor or use white (-) at the relay box behind the glove box, white 24 pin plug, pin 21. ~{Currently direct wired to alarm}~
Factory Alarm Arm brn/blk (key lock); RED / og (detect)(Tech Doc 1300) - and open power window main switch, white 32 pin plug, pins 22, 24
Factory Alarm Disarm pink/blk (key unlock); RED / org(lock/unlock detect) both - power window main switch, white 32 pin plug, pins 23, 24
Disarm No Unlock (see factory alarm disarm)
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